Topic:
Briwax on a mantle clock Question: I
have a 1881 circa mantle clock that needed repairs to the
case. The repairs turned out quite nicely but I need to
try and match the finish around the repair area. The case
finish is a dark brown color but the actual wood is
lighter in color. I understand your finish comes in
colors. Can your finish be used for refinishing this
antique clock? If it helps it is a New Haven Clock Co. 1
day strike clock. Any suggestions that you have that will
allow me to complete the repairs would be greatly
appreciated. Regards,David Storms Response: Yes
it probably can. I would suggest getting the color of the
repair to match the surrounding finish closely. Use dye
or stain and maybe overcoat with our Shellac Sanding
Sealer if you are trying to match to a varnish. Then use
the Tudor Brown Briwax to tone and luster the area. The
Briwax will not make the match for color, but will tend
to disguise the repair. The Briwax will provide an
opaqueness to the light reflecting off the finish, thus
there is a blending effect and the eye is not drawn to
the slight variation in color or grain tone. It is
usually most effective without altering the finish a
great deal. As always make a test first. Hope this helps,
Larry
|
|
|
|
|
- Topic: Coverage Question
- Question: Dear Representative, I was not able to
find coverage information at your Web site. How much will
a 1 lb. can cover? I am doing a chest type dresser and
night stand (both unfinished pine). Will a 1 lb. can be
adequate? Thanks, Dave
- Response: Go to the Tech & data sheet link
provided on this page http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/briwax.htm
or click here. http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/prodinfo.htm#Briwax
Original The info you need should be there.
If not let me know, Thanks, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax as a Stain and finish for kitchen
cabinets
- Question: Thank you for responding to my inquiry.
The information I was needing was for new, unfinished
cabinets and doors. This is a new house. We understood
that you carry a stain wax that you apply as a stain and
also includes a wax finish. Is that correct? If not, I
thank you for your trouble. Cheri Foster
- Response: "apply as a stain and also includes a
wax finish" --- Yes it sort of works this way, but better
to understand it as a pigmented wax that tones in the
direction of the color chosen. If there is a color you
are trying to achieve, do so with a dye or stain first,
then use the Briwax to tone up and enhance that.
Generally, for normal use kitchen cabinets, a wax finish
is not an ideal one, which is why I expressed some
hesitation. Wax finishes do not work well around water or
where they is excessive wear and tear to the surface,
i.e. use hard wearing poly's etc. If you were trying to
enhance some existing cabinets, Briwax can work
exceptionally well. And some areas, such as the door etc.
could be finished with Briwax with reasonably good
success. Wax is more of a maintenance type finish, which
works very well over fine woodwork and cabinetry where
the grain and appearance of the woodwork is of utmost
importance to develop patina and appearance without
affecting the aesthetic quality of the woodwork, only
enhance it. Wax is very durable in terms of a lasting
finish, but does not stand up to abrasion well. i.e.: It
works well on a floor where there is little leather sole
traffic and grit.
So if the cabinets are more of a furniture type
thing, then the Briwax could work extremely well. But if
this is a kitchen to be used as a work center, then you
should understand Briwax and wax finishes before jumping
to using them under these circumstances.
Briwax works well on doors and interior woodwork,
but from the previous, you can see that the surface use
of the finish would be much different. Generally, we
would highly recommend the Briwax for interior doors and
this type wood work. Again, if color change is important,
we would recommend doing so first, then using the Briwax
to tone. Also, a more durable and even luster can be
achieved if the substrate is sealed with a Shellac Sealer
first. You would apply a stain or dye first if needed.
Another thing about Briwax, is it is very forgiving
and repairable. The quality of the wax finish is enhanced
over time as it is used, which is so different than any
other finish. it acquires charm and fine patina over time
as it is used. Hence, its' use on fine woodwork. Hope
this is of some help, Larry
|
- Topic: Reproducing Antique Irish Pine
Furniture
- Question: Dear Sirs, As I am rather new to
reproducing antique furniture, I need some help. I've
been directed by everyone on God's green earth to your
company for your products; specifically, the wax that
carries your namesake, and Briwax 2000. Since every
reproducer and refurbisher of fine antique Irish pine
farmhouse furniture, with whom I've spoken about the
craft, seems to use your product for the beautiful
finishes on his/her work, I suppose you would have an
idea about what would work in my situation. Which color
of your Briwax and Briwax 2000 waxes comes closest in
finished appearance to the typical honey-color of antique
Irish pine furniture? I will be attempting this result on
plain, sanded, unfinished naked pine. Thank you for your
time. Sincerely, Matthew T. McGaha
- Response: Since you know what it is you are trying
to achieve, I would highly recommend doing some 4x4
samples using some various techniques and finishes. You
may wind up with some finishing materials that will set
on your shelf a while, but if you are truly trying to
duplicate a look, the money and time spent will be well
worth it. There is no way we can say do this and you will
achieve what you are looking for. Differences in
materials, technique, application and desired appearance
are too varied.
Generally color and patina is achieved first, then
use the Briwax, usually Lt. Br or Gold Oak, to highlight
and tone the patina up. The Briwax will also add a nice
luster, warm type glow, where the light refracts within
the wax as opposed to a surface reflective shine.
Check out these 2 links, you may find them helpful.
Also, the StaynWax -Antique Pine's intention is to
replicate this amber effect. I believe you would still
want to overcoat with Briwax. Also, some of the dyes
might be of use. And of course you might want to try the
lye route.
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/lye.htm
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/stain%20wax.htm
Hope this is of some help. Larry
|
- Topic: teak oil or not?
- Question: Do you recommend teak oil on outdoor
teak furniture for people who live in the mountains? Will
I have problem with mildew or black spots due to our damp
cool nights? Is there a better way to protect teak?
- Response: The Teak Oil is an excellent outdoor
treatment. It will need to be reapplied as all sealers of
this nature need to be. It is a blend of Linseed oil,
varnish, dryers etc. that works very well on these type
woods.
Mildew & black spots do not have much to do
with the finish and need to be dealt with separately,
although once sealed their presence will be mostly on the
surface of the treatment and should be easier to deal
with.
Fungicides etc. are what you need to check into,
but best to check with the local deck people for the
proper treatments etc. Hope this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: antiquating pine
- Question: Just ordered some material from you. Was
wondering if you had any suggestions on staining and
antiquating pine, also about a wax finish? does it need
to be sealed first or is wax enough? I heard of some wax
finishes that were first sealed with shellac. thanks
RON
- Response: Sorry not to have gotten to you
sooner.
Wax, particularly a hard finishers wax like Briwax,
excels when used in conjunction or over a sealed surface,
whether a new oil or old varnish. The purpose of our
Shellac Sealer is to provide such a surface over unsealed
woods. It hardens up the top grain, fills in open pores
& grain, thus holding the wax at the surface, so it
is more uniformly thin. Optimally thin is when a wax such
as Briwax is at its' best in terms of hardness &
luster. Now if you are trying to build up the wax layer
and utilize it for antiquating a finish, most of the
previous is out the window.
My suggestion in this area is always to impart by
other means the patina & color you are trying to
achieve, and then utilize the wax to tone and luster the
antiqued finish. When approached in this way, a much
truer look and appeal is achieved.
Our StaynWax Antique Pine does a fine job for
providing color and a realistic unevenness of color tone.
I need to get more info on the web about it. But it is
important to try it first by preparing a sample. I have
used it and am quite satisfied. But it is still intended
to be over coated with Briwax, again for tone, depth and
luster.
And of course there are the mechanical type things,
whether you use an awl, beat the item with a chain, sand
away at the typical wear areas etc.
Antiquating the pine, certainly depends most on
what the item is and to the extent of originality you are
trying to achieve. But if done for even some quick
success, is a combination of mechanical abrasion,
imparting color and range, and then utilizing the wax to
bring out the underlying beauty - i.e. don't rely on just
the Briwax, use it to bring out the beauty of your work.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Re: floors
- Question: I want to use Briwax liming wax on a new
floor, but I want to create a pattern--sort of a
stenciled effect, with dyes AND liming in places. I'm
confused about what you can put over a coat of Liming
Wax--can I seal the floor conventionally, with a
Verathane- type finish, or am I limited to Liming Wax and
Briwax? The data sheets contradicted the descriptions of
some products, and now I'm totally confused. Also, is
there a retail distributor of Briwax in Seattle? Thank
you! D. Gleason
- Response: First I would like to understand where
there is a contradiction in the data sheets ? If there is
please point it out. You are correct that only a wax can
be used over Liming Wax. But the waxes, either Briwax or
the Liming Wax can be used over either the water base or
spirit dyes. You can not use Verathane over Wax, but can
use Verathane over the Water Base or Spirit Dyes.
Waxes must be the last over something else, and
only a wax can be used over a wax.
If you are going to use Verathane, my suggestion
would be to use the White Grain Filler. Then you can do
what you want over it, without complication of
compatibility problems. It also will take stain/dye,
where the waxes will not.
Briwax Liming Wax is not intended for use on floors
either, but over coated with Briwax would provide a
harder wax finish. But are waxed floors really what you
want ? Sounds like Verathane, so use the White Grain
Filler to achieve the Limed effect, and you will have
greater durability. The Liming Wax and grain filler are
only available mail order or on line below. Hope this
helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Child's Crib
- Question: I am building a baby cradle out of
Honduras Mahogany and was wondering which of your
products you would recommend for finishing. Thanks,
- Response: There are products which we sell that I
personally would not hesitate to use for a child's crib,
but none are labeled as such, and therefore cannot make a
recommendation in this area. And would not recommend
their use. I would suggest posting your question at the
newsgroup for wood working. And / or using products so
labeled for use around children.
Also, you may want to check out the use of Mahogany
as a wood for a baby's' crib - are you aware that some
woods are poisonous ? Will your child be gnawing on the
wood ? Hopefully, you will see the problem with your
question. It is a tough area to deal with. Your on your
own from my stand point. Sorry, I could not be of more
help. Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax or Hartco Guard Wax on a wood
floor
- Question: I have heard of your waxes from my
sister who is a graduate of the North Bennet Street
School in Boston. I am interested in using your wax on my
kitchen Hartco Maintained floor. In the past I have used
Hartco Guard wax which is a carnauba based wax. Because
Hartco is no longer manufacturing the maintained floors
they are no longer manufacturing the wax either. Would I
use the "clear" wax for the floor. I have a Regina
Buffing machine which although not a commercial buffer,
it is quite heavy and does a superb job Please let me
know which of your products I can use. Much thanks, Bill
Girolamo ,Melrose MA
- Response 1: I believe the Briwax 2000 may be the
answer. But it is a hard finishers wax, which can work
extremely well on floors. In other words it is not a
floor wax per say. It is carnauba based. I have several
prominent people, like the Wyeths who use it on their
floors. I have used it on some old oak flooring in an
apartment house I own, and have been very satisfied with
the extended durability. It is a little tricky to use in
that the key is getting it super thin, so when using it,
use sparingly. If you get any streaking, change to the
coarse pad, remove the excess and it buffs up to a high
luster rapidly. Be sure to try it on a sample area first
to be sure it is what you want. Sorry not to have gotten
to you sooner, Larry
- Response 2: Check out this area too :
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#Streaking
; Although this info seems most applicable on
furniture, the problem is very easy to occur on floors
because it is so easy to put too much on. It is easy to
correct on a floor as well, just change over to the
coarse pad, go over the area, then change back to the
fine buff, burnishing pad. As easy as tipping the buffer
down, and sliding the pad under. Don't wait to see if it
will buff off, remove excess immediately. Worked at this
way, it is fast and easy. Larry
|
- Topic: Wood Floors
- Question: Thanks Larry, I've got some Guard wax
left, but would like to try the Briwax 2000. I am very
particular about my floors and with the buffing machine I
have and some patience, I think it would work out just
fine, thanks for the response and I'll be ordering soon.
- bill girolamo
- Response: I've used Briwax with the floor buffers.
Works excellent, but particular attention needs to be
paid to our comments about streaking and how to handle,
and excess wax. With that knowledge and understanding in
hand, I believe the Briwax is fast and easy to use on
floors. Its' short coming, is it is still a wax. Hope
this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: Toning with Briwax
- Question: I have a large china cabinet and hutch
made out of pine that has been stained with Briwax
(color: Tudor brown). I have only had it for about three
months. It's a little too dark. Is there an easy way to
lighten the Briwax finish or lighten and slightly change
the color to more of a honey brown?
- Response: The Briwax color is more pronounced when
applied over an unsealed surface because the wax shrinks
down into the open pores and grain of the wood. When the
wax is applied over a sealed surface, whether that is an
old finish or what ever, the color is more of a toning
effect and the wax can be, for all practical purposes
entirely removed.
In either case, going over the wax with Clear will
again dissolve the wax on the surface, and leave behind
the Clear and obviously tone the Tudor color down.
If on unsealed wood, work at the surface a little
harder with the steel wool, in essence working the Tudor
out of the pores and open grain. You will not be entirely
successful at removing the Tudor, but it should tone it
down utilizing the Clear. Then maybe go over that with
the Gold Oak. Sorry we could not be of more help. A test
sample maybe would have been of help. Hope we have been
of some, Larry
|
- Topic: Wood Floors and using a
buffer
- Question: Larry, below are the Briwax's site
instructions on the use of Briwax on floors. It is Briwax
2000, they are referring to is that correct? Also, I
would want the toluene free product. The site talks about
different colors, But I would want to purchase the clear
again thanks for the information - bill girolamo
WOOD FLOORS
BRIWAX may be used on wood floors for a
beautiful luster that resists scratching and never
yellows. Apply sparingly with a cloth or scrub brush
to a 24 x 24 area. Allow to dry 10 - 60 minutes. With
a clean lint free cloth, buff to a rich shine. An
electric buffer, either small home model or commercial
rental type may be used to save time. If an electric
buffer is selected, apply a golf ball size amount of
BRIWAX directly under the buffer. Working an area 4' x
7', move the buffer quickly over the area to spread
the BRIWAX to a even coat. Now go back over the same
area more slowly to work the BRIWAX into the surface,
picking up any dirt and begin to show a slight luster.
- Response: Check out this area too : http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#Streaking
Although this info seems most applicable on
furniture, the problem is very easy to occur on floors
because it is so easy to put too much on. It is easy to
correct on a floor as well, just change over to the
coarse pad, go over the area, then change back to the
fine buff, burnishing pad. As easy as tipping the buffer
down, and sliding the pad under. Don't wait to see if it
will buff off, remove excess immediately. Worked at this
way, it is fast and easy. Larry
|
- Topic: Guitar Necks
- Question: Thank you. I'm looking forward to trying
Briwax on my guitar necks. Tom Hein
- Response: Use sparingly. Work well into the finish
or grain. For what you describe, after applied, let set a
little bit till solvent evaporates off, -- begin the
buffing process with extra fine, 0000, steel wool. Do so
lightly to remove excess wax. Take the pad of wool and
unroll it into a sheet. Lightly go over the wax, till you
start to see some luster, and the wool literally glides
with no drag over the wax. Switch to cotton, or something
similar, (our Pine Brush), and burnish.
If it looks like it needs another coat because the
wax has shrunk in to the open pores of the wood, do
another coat. But the key to using this product is one
optimally applied - thin coat. Not coats or coats with
thickness. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: A Picnic Table & Misc.
stuff
- Question: Many years ago (about 12), I purchased a
can of original formula Briwax (Antique Mahogany). I
bought it from a person who had a display at a craft
show, and I had intended to refinish a piece of furniture
using it. I did not refinish that piece, and in fact, I
forgot about the Briwax. I found the can of Briwax again
lately, and I used the whole can this weekend on an
essentially unfinished picnic table. This picnic table is
several years old, made of treated lumber and in
excellent condition. I tried the Briwax on a scrap piece
of lumber first; the water beaded right off and the color
was very nice. The picnic table wood had turned somewhat
gray and needed only a light sanding first -- I then
cleaned it off and applied the Briwax with a soft cloth.
The Briwax went on beautifully and the table looks
absolutely wonderful. The one can, though, was only
enough to cover the top and the seats.
My intent was to let the table "cure" for a couple
of days and then buff it very well with a clean, soft
cloth. I was hoping this would make it totally color safe
so that one could sit on the seats without danger of
coming away with any residue on one's clothing. I also
thought I would try to purchase more of the product to
give the table another coat, and perhaps
annually.
The picnic table was originally stained &
varnished, but that didn't last long. I then tried a deck
sealer type of product, but that also didn't last long,
and it did not protect the table at all. Thus, I was very
happy to see the water beading off the top of the table
after applying the Briwax.
Now I see on your website that this product is "not
suitable for exterior use". Could you please tell me why?
The table does sit in direct sun year round on a deck
attached to our home.
Also, when I purchased this product so many years
ago, I was under the impression that it was specifically
for finishing furniture. However, the information
provided in your website appears that Briwax can be used
similar to a furniture polish (on already finished
furniture). Is that correct? Because I have an oak dining
set that has a couple of small areas on the table top
that are very slightly water damaged -- would your
product help to restore those areas? If so, should I use
the "furniture cleaner" first and then the Briwax/Briwax
2000? Thank you, Julie Tyrrell
- Response: No wax wood finish, including Briwax is
suitable for exterior use. There are many wood finishes
in this category, for interior use only.
Wax does not cure or harden in the fashion you are
thinking, like varnish, lacquers or urethanes. Wax is
wax, just like the paraffin's used on top of jelly
containers, they are just a different blend with other
things thrown in - but still wax. Briwax is at its best
when optimally thin, that is also when it is at its'
hardest sheen (burnished). But it is still wax, and
relative to a plastic urethane is soft. You can not get
the soft warm glow luster of wax and the hard impervious
mirror plastic gloss in the same product.
For your picnic table, I would recommend our Teak
Oil. It is designed for what you describe, but will need
reapplication, similar to the other sealers you have
tried.
Yes, the Briwax could be quite suitable for the
enhancement of your oak, but trial is the best way to
start. Waxes can be used directly over bare wood, and
Briwax is often used this way. But a better, more uniform
and durable finish is achieved when used in conjunction
with another sealer, sealed surface, old finish or
finish. Wax is an enhancer, Briwax is excellent at toning
up and bring out the finer points to grain and
color.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Wood Dyes
- Question: Can the above dyes be sprayed on pine,
left to dry and then coated with a polyurethane clear
finish? thanks
- Response: Yes, but any excess dye, or dyestuffs
would need to be wiped off first. Basically, as any other
stain/dye would be used. Larry
|
- Topic: Shellac Sealer
- Question: I have a question about your Shellac
Sanding Sealer. Can this product be used OVER a
penetrating stain (such as Minwax) but UNDER a wipe on
poly finish? I use your waxes as a finish all the time --
they are great. I just recently learned about the Shellac
Sanding Sealer on your web site and don't know much about
it. Thank you for your help. Thom Camacho
- Response:As to being used over a stain or dye,
that should be quite fine, so long as it has cured, such
that the carrying agent (solvent) of the stain will not
try to bleed through.
As to the urethane being used over Shellac, what
would be the point ? What is there to gain ? I would
follow the instructions of the urethane manufacturer.
Shellac Sanding Sealer fills in open grain and
pores of the wood, thus making the next application of
material, wax or other material such as French Polishes,
Varnishes, more even and uniform and seals the other
natural oils in the wood. Some people use the Shellac
Sanding Sealer as a French Polish, by applying several
applications.
Generally, I believe with poly this is done with a
second coat, but following the directions on the can is
best here. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Shellac Sealer
- Question: Thanks very much for your advice.
Regarding the use of varnish or urethane over the sanding
sealer, the point here is for greater protection as I am
considering this for a dining room table I made. I
assumed that varnish/urethane would have greater
resistance to scratches/water than a sanding sealer alone
as a final top coat. My question was simply one of
compatibility. I look forward to seeing the Briwax line
of products (other than wax) in retail stores soon.
Thanks again.
- Response: Given the nature of poly, (plastic) I do
not know what the Sealer would add, unless the poly maker
advised its' use. Poly/Varnish for all practical purpose
is poly, not varnish. None of the more natural finishes
can compare in water and scratch resistance to the
synthetics. As to durability in terms of time and ease of
repair of the patina that would be another question. Poly
will break down. Wax will not. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax on floors and around the
house
- Question: I am remodeling an older home and I have
wood flooring throughout that I want to refinish. I also
have had some cabinets built out of maple. I want to put
a clear finish on both in order to bring out the grain
and natural beauty of the wood. Can I use Briwax as the
primary finish on the cabinets and floors or should I
apply clear varnish first and use Briwax as a secondary
protection? Any information you can provide will be
greatly appreciated.
- Response: Briwax is a hard finishers wax. In the
world of waxes, I believe it to be the best, and when
used properly will provided the hardest wax finish
available in a wax. Your question really is - is a wax
finish suitable for your purposes. Very often wax is fine
in more places than people realize, and will provide a
durable, lasting, wonderful luster that will acquire an
aesthetically pleasing patina over time as it is used.
It also can be a poor finish used in the wrong
place. Your suggestion of Briwax over varnish to produce
a more durable finish is good. Do remember that Briwax
will not evaporate or breakdown from ultraviolet. If not
worn aware or subjected to water, Briwax is most durable.
In the world of finishes, wax is a soft finish, but
Briwax would be a hard wax in the world of wax. Hope this
has been of help. Larry
|
- Topic: Danish Teak Furniture & smoke
odor
- Question:We recently inherited several pieces of
Danish Teak bedroom and dining room furniture. The
furniture is approx. 40 yrs. old and the finish is in
need of rejuvenation. Which of your products would be
best for this? Another question: The furniture was in the
home of a heavy smoker all of its years and has retained
the odor, especially inside the dresser drawers. How can
we eliminate this problem? Thank you. Kevin
Segebarth
- Response: What is on the Danish furniture now for
a finish ? Teak Oil ?
If so, then wipe down with mineral spirits and/or
our Briwax Reviver, followed by mineral spirits, and then
apply Teak Oil.
The smoke odor, I am not sure. Sounds like baking
soda would be appropriate, or washing the surface with
TSP. Try this question at the newsgroup for woodworking,
I am sure you would receive appropriate
responses.
Hope this is of help, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax Gold Oak
- Question: Dear Briwax staff-- I am looking for a
wax with a light oak stain to use to restore an oak
table. The local antiques store restorer said to use very
fine steel wool , then apply denatured alcohol to clean
the surface and then apply this wax. They used a KIWI
light oak (chene clair) paste wax, but I can't find any
of it around here. It seems that one of your products
would do the job of it. Could you please advise me on
this? Thanks,
- Response: I do believe that the Briwax Gold Oak
will do just fine. In actuality, my opinion, is that it
will perform much better. Larry
|
- Topic: White Residue
- Question: I have just tried my first tin of
Briwax. I tried it on a small section of a Queen Anne
style display case I have, and it looked beautiful. I
tried it on a larger hidden section, and it still was
gorgeous. However, when I tried it on one of the legs, I
noticed a white haze-like film after I started buffing
it. I buffed longer and the white haze turned into
streaking which appears to go with the grain of the wood.
This does not appear on the entire leg, just in a couple
of places (the top and the foot). What caused this and
how do I get rid of the streaking? I am reluctant to
apply the wax to the rest of the cabinet until I know how
to prevent this from happening again (or at least what
causes it and how to correct it). Please help me quick!
Linda
- Response: Your problem is excess wax. A common
problem with using Briwax. Wax is not about a coat or
coats, but an optimally applied, singular thin layer. It
is at this point that wax is at its' hardest &
highest luster.
Take a pad of Extra fine steel wool, unroll it to
make an open sheet. Lightly go over the Briwax till the
wool floats over the wax / or there is no drag on the
wool from the wax. The wax at this point should also just
be starting to luster. Switch over to a cotton cloth or
brush or something similar, and burnish the wax.
Click the following link for some other info. :
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#A
Tip on Buffing Briwax
Hope this is of help, Larry
|
- Topic: Marble Wax
- Question: What is the composition of Briwax Marble
Wax? Will it also seal marble to some degree?
- Response: I am not sure of the exact composition,
but it is a blend of waxes, including Carnauba,
emulsified by solvents which evaporate off. It is
formulated for use on Marble, thus called Marble Wax. So
the marble would be sealed by wax. If wax is a suitable
sealant for the purpose you wish to seal against, then it
should work quite well. But as stated it is to provide a
sheen for marble. Wax is an excellent sealant (to certain
materials) and debonding agent as well.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Teak Oil for food
preparation
- Question: Could you please inform me as to whether
you can use teak oil on work surfaces that are to be used
for food preparation. If this is not advisable, are you
able to advise on another product please? Thank you, H
Jasper
- Response: Finally, with a little arm twisting I
have an appropriate but negative answer. No our Teak Oil
& Danish Oil is not for use where there is direct
food contact. Occasional contact after a 2 week curing
would be a fine. But the answer is no for food
preparation.
This is not true on all Teak and Danish Oil blends,
so you may want to look for other manufacturers.
Sorry we could not be of more help, Larry
|
- Topic: Dye Removal
- Question: Dear Sirs, After using a water based dye
on new wood, I found the color is not exactly what I
wanted. Can you please tell me how to properly remove the
color from the wood after it has dried. I can not seem to
find this information anywhere. Please help. Thank you
very much.
- Response: By washing the surface with hot water
and then sanding. Aniline dyes are intended by design to
be carried deep into the wood. Water does this well.
Total to partial removal of the dye stuffs will be
dependent on the depth of the dye into the wood and the
depth of your removal process. This will be something you
will need to balance out as to what is acceptable or you
can live with. Also, when washing away the dye, I caution
you about some of the pigments being carried deeper as
well.
It is always important to do a trial sample before
proceeding on anything of this nature to assure
compliance with ones' expectations. You might want to
post your question at the woodworking news group for more
definitive help or even some better and more appropriate
suggestions. It is very good for this sort of thing.
Wish we could be of more help, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax and Toluene
- Question: Dear Sirs, Could you give me some
information please. A friend was telling me that it can
be dangerous to use Briwax as it contains toluene which
is carcinogenic and also can give rise to very bad
headaches. I was very interested and decided to look this
up on the internet. I have found your web site very
helpful and now know that I can find Briwax without
Toluene. We live in an old house which we renovated and
have a lot of stripped pine, e.g. staircase doors and
furniture most of which is finished with Briwax. We have
been here about eight years and during that time I have
been plagued by severe Migraines and have not been able
to specifically identify what the cause is. I do not know
if there could be any connection between this and the
toluene, and I suppose as you are selling it, it might be
a difficult question for you to answer, however I would
be most grateful if you could respond. Perhaps there may
be a good reason for me removing the finish off the
various wood fittings and finishing again with Toluene
free. Please could I have your comments. Juliet
Watkins
- Response: Your friend has misled you with partial
information. All petroleum distillates, to the best of my
knowledge are carcinogens. When was the last time you
watered the garden with mineral spirits, one of the most
mild of solvents and carcinogenic as well. When you pump
your gas, the fumes you are breathing are carcinogenic.
When & if you apply fingernail polish, you are
applying toluene. Read the labeling at the gas pump.
Assuming of course you pump your own gas, we do here, but
I know many places there are still attendants. As to the
Briwax Original containing Toluene, that is true. All
waxes and finishes, require a solvent of some sort. Most
are a petroleum distillate. All waxes that I know of use
a pet. solvent. No pet. solvent is truly friendly,
contrary to all the competitive hype. i.e. petro the
garden. The further misinformation is to think the
solvent is still present. The solvent is present for a
short period of time, very short and very thoroughly for
Toluene. It evaporates off, leaving behind wax. A rather
inert very stable material. It is only when the solvent
has evaporated off entirely that the wax can be finished
off. True of all waxes. Waxes which use an inferior
solvent would be more suspect of the type problem you
pose, because evaporation is inferior to the Toluene.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Buffing Briwax with a brush
- Question: Have recently finished using Briwax on a
conference table with turned and fluted legs. Although I
did not notice you mentioning this in published info, I
applied wax vigorously with paint brush, then used
another clean brush to remove excess. Then used your pine
brush to buff grooves. Worked great. Is there any
downside to this technique? Thanks, will be ordering more
stuff soon. Doug Hebert, Jr.
- Response: No - but I think it demonstrates a
better understanding of using wax, it is not about a nice
thick coat or many coats, but an optimally applied thin
coat. Sounds like a good way to get there. Larry
|
- Topic: Slippery Briwax
- Question: Dear sir/madam, I have just laid a pine
floor out of reclaimed timber, I have tried your rustic
pine finish wax on a sample piece and it appears to be
very slippery to the touch, can you tell me that if I do
a full room will the surface be slippery, or should I be
sealing it with some other product to prevent this? Thank
you for your help.
- Response: We are in the US, so I will forward your
info request on to appropriate people in UK. But from our
experience, Briwax is slippery, but provides a beautiful
wax luster which stands up quite well and enhances the
beauty of wood. But if a non-slippery floor is what you
need then wax would not be a top recommendation by us.
Larry
|
- Topic: Dark Brown on a wood floor
- Question: Larry, Thanks for the information. I
want to use this wax on my existing dark hardwood floors
that are wax sealed not polyurethane sealed. I have
usually used Bruce hardwood floor wax but heard that
Briwax would do a better job. Do you think the dark brown
will work on this? Dolores
- Response: In my opinion, underline opinion, there
would be no noticeable difference between the 2 colors in
this situation.
I would comment that we cannot stress the
importance of using Briwax very sparingly. That
generally, excess is applied. It is almost the nature of
the beast.
So apply in a small area, wipe all excess off
immediately, apply excess to the next small area, repeat
until what ever you are doing has a thin film applied to
it.
Allow the solvent time to evaporate off. 30 minutes
or more. Then buff it up.
If you see any streaking or smudging, don't waste
time trying to buff it off, take a pad of steel wool,
unfold it to an open sheet, buff with it till you see a
luster, switch back to cotton or what ever you are
buffing with.
If you work at it this way it is literally a peach
to work with, and extremely fast to use. Go the route of
applying a nice coat and you will make a lot of extra
work for yourself.
Briwax can be applied with a floor buffer as well.
Use the previous instructions, but where you need to
remove excess during the buffing step, you put on the
course applicator to remove the excess, and then switch
to the buffing pad when you see it start to luster. This
involves pushing down on the handle and sliding the
courser pad underneath. Again, very fast, so long as you
don't waste time buffing when you see a streak or smudge.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: for leather.
- Question: I have several pieces of leather
furniture that need some life put back into. A friend has
used your wax on leather suitcases and the effect was
dramatic. I'm tempted but am concerned that it may wear
off on clothes, etc. Do you have any suggestions or
another product I could consider. FYI, I've used some
creams and polishes designed for leather but have been
disappointed with the end result. Thanks.
- Response: It should be fine for leather. The
problem of getting on to clothes is excess wax. Use it
very sparingly, and buff it off very well. It should work
excellent. More is not better when using wax. Least is
best. Hope this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: Wood Doors
- Question: Hello....I have a set of 7' Antique
Double Doors which are made out of Mesquite I think. They
are not sealed and have worm holes etc. in them. I don't
want to stain these doors or even polyurethane them. I
just want to protect them and give them a rich luster.
Would this product be something I could use on them and
give me the desired results? thanks...Anena
Johnson
- Response: As long as the doors are on the interior
and not exposed to the elements, I do believe that Briwax
would be the product of choice. It is under these
circumstances that the product excels, & ultimately
provides precisely, the best of any product, what you are
asking for in your email. My only advise would be to use
it sparingly, very sparingly, then buff and burnish it.
If it looks like it needs a second coat do that, do not
use this product in excess if you are trying to achieve a
hard lustrous finish.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax worked great - but one
spot.....and on a child's crib
- Question:Hi! First I love your products. But I am
trying to touch up a wood crib. It had some scratches in
it. So I sanded the scratches that were a little deep and
used the Briwax. Everything worked except, one spot. It
will not take the color. What should I do? Thank Betty
- Response: I do hope you read labels.
If the crib is a child's crib, we do not recommend
use of Briwax here. Also, we would not recommend any wax
or most finishes, for that matter. All waxes for wood
that I am aware of, contain petroleum distillates, and
with the Briwax other dyestuffs etc.
With the Briwax, the distillates do evaporate off,
and wax is left behind, which for all practical and
everyday situation is very safe. But it is not edible. An
edible finish, or finish which is proven and tested to be
completely harmless when ingested is what you should be
using here. These are difficult to find, but is what you
should be doing. Or child safety paints etc.
Of course if the crib is not a "child's" crib or is
for decorative purposes the previous paragraph would not
apply.
And if the previous paragraph does not apply, sand
lightly, through the finish, apply a stain or dye color
with a cotton swab till the color matches closely. Go
from light to dark slowly. Use the Briwax over the area
to blend and tone it closer. You can get it close, but
not so you can't tell.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic:......if I rub hard enough where the wax
comes off.
- Question: I recently painted and Briwaxed a dining
room table. There are spots if I rub hard enough where
the wax comes off. I have 6 chairs to do and want to be
sure it wont come off on anyone's clothes. Can you tell
me what I did wrong and how I can fix it? Your help would
be appreciated! Thank You, Kim Shrader
- Response: I would like to have known more about
your chairs, but am probably safe at surmising what has
happened.
What you describe is a nice coat of wax, applied
amply, then buffed somewhat to create a somewhat ok
luster. Probably looks ok, but not quite right.
But this is not the idea - wax is at its' hardest
highest luster when applied optimally thin, and then
burnished and buffed even thinner.
What you should do is take a pad of extra fine
steel wool (0000), open it to a cloth sheet, and lightly
go over the chairs with that removing any excess wax. The
steel wool should glide smoothly over the finish, and not
drag on any excess wax. You should see the wax turn to a
high luster. Switch to cotton and burnish the wax.
In this state the wax is the most thin and at its'
hardest state. When you run your finger across the wax
surface it should glide, be slippery, absolutely no drag,
if it drags, it is excess wax. Buff with 0000 steel wool,
then burnish with cotton. When used properly, no wax
should be able to work off on any cloth.
This problem can also occur on hard dense finishes,
where it is difficult to use a wax properly. Use Briwax
Liquid Glass.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: glossy finish?
- Question: Will Briwax work if you do not want a
glossy finish? Thank you , C. Reading
- Response: Briwax when properly used provides a
luster. It is really not a gloss. Gloss finishes usually
reflect the light at the surface, more of a mirror shine.
With wax the light is absorbed, refracts and then bounces
out. So the answer is yes it shines, glows, but no it is
not considered a gloss. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Misc. -Excess Wax -& feeding the
finish
- Question: Hello! I have a new "rustic" pine
kitchen table made by El Paso Imports. Too look like an
old Mexico piece - the grain of the wood is very
"open"/coarse/large. They tell me that they use Briwax on
the tables. My family really uses this table - I'm
finding water rings and places where I have to wipe off
(get real--ruuub off) spaghetti sauce, the slightly
colored "finish" ends up lighter.
I LOVE the look the Briwax gives the table. But 5
or 6 times a day -- yes, three meals usually at 4
different times, snacks after school, after soccer
practice, before bedtime...well I need a durable finish.
Don't cringe, but I want to 1) remove the wax finish -
because I think I have to then 2) apply a polyurethane,
lacquer, shellac type produce/finish so the tomato sauce
doesn't stain the wood and I don't get rings from dawn
till midnight. So, please if you can recommend how to
safely remove Briwax. The store says Mineral Spirits is
indicated on your products. Should I use fine steel wool
or something more course to "clean out" the grain in the
wood. Is low odor Mineral Spirits acceptable? Then, what
product would you recommend? Remember I want the very low
sheen, almost matte appearance the table now has. So
lacquer with steel wool between the 2 or so coats????
Would I then apply more of your wax over it???? I am
thinking that I would not, again due to the maintenance.
I also have an old (approx. 90 year old) bombé
armoire in the Louis XIV style. It has beautiful veneer
in cherry or mahogany and many ornate, deeply carved
areas. I had been using Old English Furniture Oil for the
first 5-8 years I owned the piece. Then I started using
Guardsmen Furniture polish for the past 6. The poor
armoire seems to drink in whatever I slather on!!!!!
Makes me wonder if it is not "evaporating" as your
information states. Because I also live in DRY, WARM
Phoenix, it is not aging as gracefully these past few
years as it had the first 80 or so! Should, or maybe I
need to ask HOW do I go about reviving her? I don't want
to refinish (restain...) it, just help out the appearance
of her "old dry wrinkles!" A cleaner?, then a wax? then a
polish? Thank you so much for your time in just reading
my crazy requests. I appreciate it and look forward to
your reply! MJ Pérez
- Response 1: As to your kitchen table, I believe
you have answered all your own questions , and are on the
right track. But your problem sounds a little more like a
problem with excess wax, and the wax not being properly
buffed out. If this was done properly, your problems with
the finish would be much less, but there would be a
corresponding change in the color because the wax would
be much thinner, but harder as well.
As to your armoire, the whole idea of feeding the
finish etc., is not sound thinking or knowledge. It
sounds to me that a proper wax polish here might be a
better solution.
- Response 2: Cont'd ----- dry >wrinkles!" >A
cleaner?, then a wax? then a polish?
NO NO, Pick a decent wax or polish. Stick with the
one only. Forget the cleaning, there is no finish that
needs to be constantly cleaned. Don't use Murphy Oil Soap
(Maybe if you left it in a barn for 100 years - then we
all would be happy to clean it up for you, it would be a
real treat and a great find) In our products, think in
terms of the Briwax Lt. Brown, Sheradale Antique Brown or
Briwax Liquid Glass. If the finish is in excellent
condition, no perkiness in terms of color tone or
restorative qualities needed go with the Liquid Glass or
Sheradale. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Marks in the finish
- Question: 1. I HAVE A DINING ROOM TABLE THAT HAS
MARKS ON IT IN THE SHAPE OF MY PLACE MATS. I WAS TOLD,
THAT BECAUSE I USED A SPRAY WAX ON MY TABLE AND DIDN'T
ALLOW IT TO DRY COMPLETELY BEFORE PUTTING THE PLACE MATS
ON, MY TABLE IS PERMANENTLY DISCOLORED AND I HAVE TO HAVE
IT REFINISHED. I WAS WONDERING IF YOUR PRODUCT WOULD TAKE
AWAY FIX THIS PROBLEM
2. I ALSO HAVE SOME DISCOLORATION ON MY BEDROOM
CHEST NOT IN DISTINCT SHAPES LIKE MY DINING ROOM TABLE
...IT LOOKS LIKE WATER WAS USED ON IT, BUT NO WATER HAS
BEEN USED. THIS PIECE OF FURNITURE IS ONLY ABOUT 8 YRS
OLD. CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT TO DO? I THINK MY CLEANING CREW
MAY HAVE USED "END DUST" ON IT. YOUR IMMEDIATE REPLY WILL
BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU. M.
SCHEFFLER
- Response: These problems are always hard to
resolve without seeing them. Most actually can only be
partly resolved any ways. I would use Briwax Reviver,
followed by Briwax Liquid Glass for both situations.
Sheradale Antique Brown or Briwax of a dark color might
help to disguise what is left.
This will do some good for sure, and may do a 75 %
plus performance, which is very high for fix ups of what
you describe. The Liquid Glass has performed some near
100 % finish fix ups for me. As to why and for which type
of mark compared to another, I am still trying to figure
out the differences in performance myself. There seems to
be no real explanation. What is nice about our product is
what you see is what you get. Unlike other products which
evaporate off in a few days. I have found these products
in my opinion, to be exceptional. I hate to remove or
alter a finish too much, for fear of losing value in
better pieces of furniture. Wish I could be of more help.
Larry
|
- Topic: .. dark cherry finish
- Question: We have just put Watco 'Cherry' on 6
dining room chairs, no finish coats darkening using your
products for the finish coat? Also have 2 antique end
tables made of cherry to finish. Have not started on them
yet. What of your products can we use to get the darker
cherry finish? Willing to use elbow grease in order to
get the smooth, rich finish. Thanks for the info. Dale
Stillman
- Response: My suggestion is to read up on wax,
urethane, varnish, lacquer etc. and know something more
about stains and the product you are using on cherry, a
difficult wood to finish properly, but well worth the
effort. We sell a book by Bruce Johnson called the Week
End Refinisher (it can be found elsewhere as well) and
reading your question I would highly recommend it and you
would most certainly end up picking the correct methods
for what you are trying to do and accomplish in the end.
Otherwise we are both just groping around in the dark. It
is 12.00 plus 3.50 shipping. I wish I could be of more
help here, but am certain if you read up on these areas a
little you will end up being much more satisfied with
your finished work. Your questions would also maybe not
be so vague. Sorry I
|
