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This is a page of questions and topics people have emailed about. Some of the topics and answers may be of help to you and your situation.

All questions and answers are the property of Larry Mann and are to be considered copyright material. My responses may or may not be acceptable to the makers of Briwax. Hopefully, my responses will be helpful with your use of these type products, and lead to a successful project.

If we can be of help, please send an email with the details. Please include all the particulars, the purpose, where the item will be be used, the existing finish, age of the piece and anything that could be relevant. As the old adage states, a picture is worth a thousands words, it really does help me to answer your question to your specific requirements if a picture is attached. Allow me some time, I do think about these things.

Email me here: RogerEdwards@briwaxwoodcare.com

To search on this page for an answer use the "Find -on this Page " search usually under "Edit" at the top of your Navigation Bar. Type in a key word and hit Find. Continue hitting Find to get all relevant info.

  • Topic: Removing Briwax from a carpet
  • Question: Hi, I need information for removing dark brown Briwax from my light beige carpet. We moved a very heavy shelf up our stairs and some of the wax rubbed off on the carpet on the stairs. It is pretty bad. Help, please.
  • Response: First of all, try to get up all the big chunks of wax that you can by hand. Just lift those off. After you have gotten off all the loose wax, then try Mineral Spirits. This is a very mild paint thinner. ALWAYS try on an inconspicuous are to make sure that the carpet is colorfast. However, at this point, I guess you are just wanting to make sure you get the colored wax off! You will want to use a clean cloth and moisten it with the Mineral Spirits. Dab the areas, don't grind it in more. You will want to present a clean area of the cloth as much as possible - not just redistributing the wax around. It may take several times of doing this. If you used one of the darker colors of wax, you may need something a bit more aggressive. If after several times of the Mineral Spirits you still have some color left, you might need to use something like Acetone. Definitely try this on an inconspicuous area of the carpet first, this could remove dyes from the carpet. I hope this helps. JaLea Himes
  • Topic: Briwax on Parquet Wood Floors
  • Question: Do you have a product for antique (18th century) French parquet flooring?
  • Response: The Briwax in the Original works great on floors as you describe. What is important to consider is if the floor type and application is suitable for wax, then the Briwax would be an excellent choice as it is a most durable and hard wax finish when considered to other waxes.

    On another note, floors as you describe, much like a fine piece of early furniture, are best preserved and maintained by "maintenance" type wax polishing. For floors these reapplications are necessary where there is foot traffic with shoe soles and grit which wears away at the wax. Where this does not occur, much like woodwork in a den etc., the reapplications are almost unnecessary. Wax does not breakdown over time nor evaporate off, nor does it re-amalgamate, attach itself, bond directly, or change the existing finish.

    Thus a fine wood floor as you describe would be properly maintained in its "existing" condition without alteration. The pigmented waxes can go a long way to disguising scratches and other unsightly wear without altering the parquet.

    Hope we can be of help, Larry

  • Topic: Finger Nail Polish Stain
  • Question: I spilled fingernail remover on a desk and now have an obvious difference in the finish of the desk; do you sell anything to correct this? MANY thanks, Betsy
  • Response: You may be able to disguise the stain but using the Briwax Original in a darker shade than the color of the finish. Also on application some or all of the discoloration from the finger nail polish may be removed.

    Hope we can be of help, Larry

  • Topic: Liming Wax and Over coating
  • Question: I don't know if you can help me with this, but do I need to use a sealer or lacquer after applying the lime wax? Thanks.  
  • Response: First of all , it is not that simple. Liming Wax is wax. lacquer is a much different finish. All waxes act as a debonding agent to all other things , except wax. Thus the Liming Wax would normally be over coated with a wax, a hard finishing wax like Briwax Original - Clear. If an overcoat is needed. We recommend over coating with Briwax Original, but frankly most people are using the Liming Wax with no overcoat.

    If you are going to want to overcoat with lacquer then a white grain filler would be the way to go, but this whole process is much different than working with waxes, and is often best left to refinishers.

    Waxes are much easier to use and very forgiving in the respect that there is no error that cannot be easily corrected, after all when all is said and done it is just wax. Waxes do not adhere to the substrate in the same way, or set in the same way as other finish materials.

    Waxes lay on the surface and "shrink" into the open pores and grain of the substrate, thus to achieve more Liming affect out of a Liming wax , you need to open the grain. This can be done with coarse sand paper, or a brass bristle brush. Test on something to see what works to achieve the affect you are looking for. It could be that applying the Liming Wax straight on will have the desired affect. Test first.

    Hope this is of help, Larry

  • Topic: Briwax Over Open Grain & Permanence
  • Question: I'm applying the wax onto oak bookshelves that have not been lacquered. They're what I call a "rough" finish. Is the wax permanent, or do I have to use it all the time, like furniture polish? Thanks for your help.
  • Response: Yes , over another finishing material or sometimes open grain is fine. Wax unlike any other finishing materials is inert, and most stable. i.e. furniture from the tombs of Egypt has been found with the original beeswax finish intact and just a buffing needed.

    All varnishes, lacquers and the like break down, 10 to 20 years or so. So wax is quite lasting in this sense. So it depends on the abuse and abrasive action to the surface. A book case doesn't get this usually, so it should be quite lasting. Wax will sometimes loose luster, but this is more to do with temperature changes which act in an elastic nature to the wax. So an occasional application or more often than not just a quick buff with a cloth is all that is needed. Dust with a dry cloth. Wax does not draw dust like oil finishes do as it does not carry the positively charged ionic particles which attract dust, except that which actually settles from the air. Wax is much different in this regard. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Briwax Wax Sticks & Dog Scratches & Wax Polishing
  • Question: You're probably going to be sorry you ever heard from me. However, I just noticed your wax filler sticks. I have deep scratches on a fruit wood end table caused by the nails of one of my greyhounds. (She would get excited when I came through the door, and "danced" all over it). Will using the sticks help? When using the sticks, how long does the "fill" last? Does the fill come off with regular polishing? Again, thanks for all your help
  • Response: The Briwax Wax sticks sound like they "could" be the answer. They work like a crayon. You crayon the wax across the the scratch and use the spatula to smooth out. They don't take the scratch out , but can go a long way to disguising, if not totally hide the scratch. The trick is to be sure to go a bit darker than the existing finish.

    As to polishing away, since the wax is lodged within the scratch, it should not polish away unless you are using polishes which will do this by attacking the wax, and actually these type polishes are harmful over time as they will also attack the existing finish. Too much is made of "feeding' and cleaning the finish. Generally this is not needed at all, and a wax to protect and maintain is all that is needed.

    An easy to use wax polish we have for this purpose is Sheradale. An easy to use around the house wax polish, and will not harm the wax in a scratch. For what you describe, Sheradale in the Antique Brown if the Fruitwood is on the Light Brown to darker tone, otherwise the Clear.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: The plastic green cap.
  • Question: I lost the plastic green cap. What can I do?
  • Response: The green plastic cover is for shipping and stacking of the Briwax tins. Its' purpose is to prevent the metal lid from lifting in warm temperatures. Always use the metal lid to seal the tin. The plastic lid can be discarded. The solvent in Briwax evaporates off quickly, so do not leave the lid off for long periods. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Suggestions for a dining room table??
  • Question: I have a formal dining room set that is 3 months old. It is made by Ashley furniture and has a med-dark finish. My problem: I used it once (without a table cloth) and there were scratches left by everything that was slid or moved around a little on the top of the table. The furniture store sent a serviceman that said to use a fine grade steel wool and rub it with the grain. The table has a wax-type finish and left very fine scratch marks across the whole table top after using the steel wool. I noticed while using the steel wool that small pieces of wax were collecting in the wool pad. Now I'm wondering what I can use or should use to get the wax finish to look smooth, ( it feels smooth as glass) and I'd like to seal it with something that will be stronger than the original wax finish so this doesn't happen again. It is (was) a beautiful wood table and I don't want to cover it every time I use it. What would you suggest? Thanks, LeeAnn
  • Response: What you describe is in fact the way a wax finish is.

    There is nothing you can use over the wax finish, except to refinish in a poly or lacquer or cover with plate glass, which just will not have the real look and feel of wax, nor the reparability of the wax finish as condensation rings and other minor damages are trapped in the wax to be later wiped away by a maintenance waxing.

    I would recommend using the Sheradale (http://www.briwax-online.com/sherdale.html) wax for maintenance waxing as required and as needed. On a wax finish you should not use anything except a dry or very dry damp cloth to clean. There is no need to use oils or other household cleaners, none.

    If this is not acceptable then the only solution is to cover it or change the finish type.

    When wax finishes were the finish of the day, in the past, before the modern day age of plastics, everyone new and understood how to use and be around their fine furnishings which were waxed out. Now people do not understand that but still want all that wax has to offer, but not understanding what makes the wax finish so long lasting and so beautiful, is also some of the reason why poly and hard lacquers came in to being in the first place. These modern day answers addressed what are often seen as the negatives of a wax finish.

    Thus it is a trade off. If living with a wax finish is a hassle, then you need a good "plastic" finished table top, and there is nothing wrong with that, but understand you can't have a natural wax finish and have it withstand the abuse that space age chemistry has address in the finish industry through advanced plastic polymers and finishes like lacquer.

    If you need something stronger, maybe a dense bowling alley finish, plate glass etc. , if you see what I am getting at.

    There are a number of poly finishes out there claiming all the great attributes of a good wax finish. You can try that. My opinion is: plastic is plastic , wax is wax. One is not the other, no matter how much advertising hype.

    Also, another thought is : has a high quality wax like Briwax or Sheradale been used ? Briwax and Sheradale are very hard finishing waxes, and in the wax business are the best I am aware of, by far.

    Hopefully this gives you the info you need to make a proper decision, and I do hope we can be of service. The link to the Sheradale is above. This is an excellent wax for the maintenance type waxings and the up keep that is needed for fine wax finished furniture. More like an easy around the house type polish to be used in place of the times one wants to use a spray or something to pick the finish up or wipe out a white water ring.

    Hope we can be of help, Larry

  • Topic: Briwax 2000 - Toluene Free - TF -- (Briwax Labeling)
  • Question: Hi Briwax, I just received the order, thanks. I ordered 2 Briwax 2000's, but the Light Brown is not Briwax 2000--please and advise. Thanks, Bob
  • Response: Yes, the makers of Briwax in the UK are in the process of changing over the labeling of the toluene free version of Briwax, from Briwax 2000 to "Toluene Free". The toluene free versions are labeled "TF", "Toluene Free" and "Briwax 2000". The labeling generally appears as "2000" under the bold "Briwax" on the front of the label, or "Toluene Free" over the left of the bold "Briwax" on the front. Also, and not always, the UPC label may have "TF" or "Toluene Free" or "TF" located on the tins. All tins with these markings are the Toluene Free version of the Briwax. Please accept our apologies until the makers run out of the "2000" and then all tins will be marked "Toluene Free" only. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Briwax on tabletop
  • Question: I have used just Briwax Original to finish pine book cases and such and really like the look and durability. I now want to finish a pine tabletop but I am worried about the durability on a surface that will be used constantly for food, drinks etc. I have read all your tips and get the impression that it works best over some other finish. How can I best get the same look as Briwax alone but the industrial durability I need. Blair
  • Response: There in lies the conundrum. When put this way , the only thing that I can suggest is a piece of glass over the Briwax. Isn't this exactly what every maker of polyurethane for furniture is trying to achieve and many claimed to have achieved.

    Basically, if you want to use wax, you want the look of wax, then you must be ready to do the maintenance waxings that a waxed finish will require.

    It is also important to note that it is through these maintenance waxings done over time that the wonderful aesthetic quality and fine patina is achieved, which so complements well-made fine furnishings and millwork. If the only or even basic criteria is utilitarian use, generally wax is not the finish to use.

    I do hope we can be of service, Larry Mann

  • Topic: kitchen cabinets
  • Question: Help Briwax: Last year we had our kitchen remodeled, which included new kitchen cabinets. The kitchen cabinets are knotty pine with a Briwax Antique Mahogany USA stain. The cabinet maker finished the cabinets with trewax clear paste wax. The look and the finish is beautiful. However, we have the following complaints, that our cabinet maker does not seem willing or able to address:

    1. The cabinets around the kitchen sink show water spots and drip marks, that if not immediately wiped dry, become stains that do not wipe away. We don't take a bath in the kitchen sink, but with normal use of the faucet and sink water, i.e., steam from hot water, splashes, drips, etc., the adjacent cabinets show water spots and drips. The only way to get rid of these dried spots and drips is to remove the wax finish and stain by lightly sanding, and then reapply the stain (Briwax), waiting for it to dry and then reapply the trewax.

    2. The cabinet doors have round antique brass handles. One particular cabinet door is used to hide the trash receptacles. Oftentimes we open and close this door with damp or greasy hands. The area around the brass handle becomes discolored. We are not able to simply wipe off the accumulated grease or smudge marks. We experience the same problem with other frequently used doors and drawers. Again, we have go through a minor refinishing project, to fully clean around the door and drawer handles.

    3. The wax finish seems to wear away quickly.

    Should a polyurethane coat have been used, or some type of sealer after the application of the Briwax Antique Mahogany USA stain, or is the triwax finish adequate for use in a kitchen?

    Please help us resolve this most frustrating problem and seemingly endless re-staining and re-waxing of the kitchen cabinets. Thanking you in advance. Phil and Virginia

  • Response: I am not sure what trewax is, so I will have to assume that it is a generic wax of some sort. Also, it is important to know that much of what you speak to is about waxes versus urethane versus polymerizing finishes (cure & harden). Waxes , do not polymerize cure and harden like a lacquer or urethane. Wax is wax, what you see is what you get. Briwax, the original wax is a very hard, tough wax relative to other waxes, but relative to urethanes or lacquer is soft. Thus your questions really have much more to do with an appropriate finish type for kitchen cabinets, than questions about a particular product or maker of waxes.

    In the world of waxes , if you had used Briwax, the wax finish, as opposed to trewax, then you probably would have a harder more resistant wax finish, but wax finishes in general are just not appropriate in high moisture utilitarian situations such as what you describe, and the problems you experience are exactly what will and do occur.

    What you describe around the cabinet doors is also typical of wax finishes. On furniture and millwork and other interior woodwork, this problem is not common and is easily corrected through maintenance waxings. Maintenance waxings are easy to do, and are often done, such as waxing of one's hardwood floors. Not a big deal on fine furniture and fine woodwork not subjected to every day wear and tear type abuse. When you think about it, most of the woodwork in your home is not subjected to this.

    For situations, as you describe waxes are just not the right product. It matters not if you use Briwax or not, although Briwax when properly buffed and burnish does an excellent job, a superb job , relative to other waxes. No wax can compete with lacquer or poly or varnish or shellac , relative to the specific problems you are having.

    Briwax can excel , as a pick me up for existing old cabinet finishes, and old finishes in general and will bring back a such nice wax luster, and in some sense restore the old cabinets or finish. In fact this is almost a problem for Briwax as this use is so outstanding sometimes that some believe it to be a cure all for everything wrong with a finish. But those cabinets , which are subjected to the abrasive action of constant wiping with damp or wet cloths or other utilitarian wear are going to lose their wax finish quickly, and maintenance wax applications are going to have to be constantly done to those adversely affected areas. Thus , what you describe is just an inappropriate use of the wax finish and really Briwax is not the problem at all.

    Wax finishes , including Briwax when applied in the professional manner as you have described can look so wonderful, but for all the problems you have described, what is needed is an appropriate lacquer or a polyurethane finish.

    The wax finish as you have described would probably be wonderful in a den with cabinets , bookshelves and other fine woodwork. It is this type of woodwork , where wax finishes excel , and a wax finishes' reparability and forgiving nature become a real asset when maintenance waxings are done; and the everyday minor damages are wiped away and become a fundamental part of the patina and aesthetic look of the finish.

    This will not occur on kitchen cabinets where those cabinets are subject to hard every day use , particularly near the kitchen sink.

    I am sorry to be the bearer of bad news , but you're options are once a week, probably, maintenance waxings with the Briwax or apply a finish such as lacquer or a polyurethane. Hope we can be help, Larry

  • Topic: Consistency
  • Question: I bought several cans of Briwax about two years ago. I haven't had time to complete my wood projects, so even after two years, the cans of Briwax have never been opened until a few days ago.

    The Briwax inside seemed to be very pasty, almost glazed in appearance. This was one of the darker browns in color.

    Is that the normal consistency of Briwax, or, even though they have never been opened, are these cans just too old to be of any use to me? Thank you. Phil

  • Response: That is common even on new, this glazing, almost a crystallizing appearance. But on feel it is not.

    It is an inherent part of the mixing of the waxes coupled with the much hotter solvents used in other common waxes. It is common too for the Briwax consistency to range from semi solid paste to aqueous and often have some solvent slosh on the surface.

    Waxes do not deteriorate or break down, neither does the solvent for this purpose, except the solvent in the Briwax evaporates off rapidly, flashes off actually.

    The Briwax is a most superb blend, and the formula quite secret, but it is not rocket science chemistry. Briwax is basically the right blend of waxes coupled with the right blend of solvents. There really is not a whole lot that can go wrong and it can be strange looking stuff some times. But the end finish should always be a nice wax luster.

    Sounds like your product is fine. Once opened, seal the tins after use well. I recommend laying a piece of plastic on top of the wax in the tin before applying the metal lid. This "helps" to keep the air trapped in the tin from drying the wax. Hope we can be of help, Larry

  • Topic: Briwax removal
  • Question: I had already read through those before I emailed you, and didn't really find what I thought was a solid answer. My concern is that the clear wax was applied over an unvarnished surface on these pieces originally, so I don't know how to completely remove the BriWax so I can stain it and get an even stain, then re-wax it with a tinted wax. Sue
  • Response: Generally, what I describe as a mineral spirits bath is what is needed. I suggest mineral spirits because of the nature of the work , this is the easiest solvent to be around.

    Work at the surface with a cloth, and or extra fine steel wool saturated with the mineral spirits, continually refreshing and rinsing in a pail of mineral spirits.

    If there is heavy graining you may need to use a barbecue (brass bristle brush) with the mineral sprits to work the wax out out of the grain and open pores.

    A stripper really doesn't work that well. It is a matter of re-emulsifying the wax and working and washing it away. Not really that tough to do once you get the hang of it. Hope we can be of help, Larry

  • Topic: questions on finish and technique
  • Question: I use Briwax on a Dinning room table - I first really liked the finish that it gave me but it doesn't last long. water marks show up even if I wipe it up immediately. Warm stuff leave marks - and I can't buff them out. Coffee cups are the worst. My husband wrote on some papers on the table and It left an impression in the finish - I can read what he wrote on it. Also I have to break into a sweat that I work so hard to get the luster that I like on the table. I seems to be harder and harder every time I work on the table. Please help. Thanks Lisa
  • Response: Some of the problems you describe are part of the issues with using wax. On an actively used table, it sometime is not worth it, which is why poly, and varnish may make the best option.

    But, much of what you describe is too too much wax. This is particularly true when print marks occur. Wax does not go away. Of all finishes it is the longest lasting, nearly of all substances on earth. It will pick up condensation etc. .

    As to breaking in to a sweat that again is part of excess wax.

    What you want is the thinnest possible film on the table that can be applied, buffed and burnished to a high hard luster. If you can run your finger across the surface and feel any drag , you have excess wax.

    Take steel wool, extra fine (0000), unroll it to a cloth so to speak, and lightly go over the surface. If the wool drags at all, it is dragging on excess wax. Lightly go over the surface "cuffing off" all the excess wax till you see a slight luster. Move on. Follow this by burnishing and buffing with a cotton cloth, like a tee shirt. Cotton will create heat and will set the wax.

    If there is any streaking, or any dragging by the cotton, take the steel wool and cuff off the excess wax. This is quick and easy to do, not much work at all, but the key is removing the excess wax so it is thin right off. Otherwise you will work like crazy trying to buff it - this will not work, except it will make you work.

    One optimally applied "most" thin film is the key. That is the best you can do. This should stop the printing and cut down on some of your problems. It will not eliminate them, but for a casual use dining table should be ok.

    Wax finishes are easily repaired and are more often used to protect that which lies below by trapping the damage that would occur to the finish below. So it is a catch 22 situation.

    But I am quite confident most of what you refer too is just too good a coat of wax, when you want a very, very thin film, not a nice coat. Larry

  • Topic: A table made of Pine that was used in the meat smoke house
  • Question: Some Dear friends have given me a table made of Pine that was used in the meat smoke house on a Virginia Plantation. It was constructed with square nails which appear to be sheet cut type. This fact and family history suggest it is well over 100 years old. The table top is approx. 4'x4' on "X" shape 2"x4" legs. The wood was in pretty bad shape as it had several areas of deterioration (look like hair growing on it) which some think may come from salting meat. It has been suggested I use Briwax finish. The owner wants no stains or the like - just something to accent the wood. It will of course be displayed in their fine home and not really see much more wear than that. It was suggested I use a clear sanding sealer to tighten the grain for light sanding before applying Brewax. The piece has tremendous sentimental value so we want to do our best for the little guy. Sounds like Briwax is a good choice. I have refinished many pieces but not with this application. Your suggestions on how to proceed to Briwax finish, if you think Briwax is appropriate and future maintenance of Briwax. Thanks in advance for your expertise, Richard
  • Response: Sorry to be so long in getting to. Also, we are not experts and offer our advice as suggestions , which you may use at your own risk. The piece you describe , certainly has antique value, and the finish as described, generally, would be best served by no alteration to it in any way.

    Thus a good wax finish , which serves only to preserve and protect the existing finish and patina would seem to be the right and suitable thing to do. Technically, nothing absorbs wax, thus wax can be removed in its entirety from whatever it is applied over, without having altered the substrate it was applied over.

    I like to use the example of wax over jellies. The wax is easily removed in its entirety from the jelly, preserves the jelly and makes no alteration to it.

    This is not so for oils, oil containing cleaners, finish feeders, etc..

    Briwax is an exceptional product in this regard.

    The suggestion of using a sanding sealer to tighten the grain, and then to further sand away to remove any patina, in my opinion, is a very poor suggestion.

    If one wants to maintain the integrity and value of the piece as you have described it, any work which affects the finish or the substrate should be done with extreme caution and under the advice of a restoration specialists who really understands this type thing.

    It is possible that the substrate and the wood may need to be strengthened in this regard, but more often than not from my experience, this is not so. There can be no question though, that this type of restoration goes to changing the integrity of the piece and must be done with extreme caution.

    If the hair like growths can be removed , while the wax is being applied, as part of the cleaning process that Briwax does while being applied, then this matter is loose on the surface and of no value to the patina.

    My suggestion, would be to apply the Briwax, using 4/0, super fine, steel wool , working at the surface with the Briwax and the Steel Wool, and anything that is loose , would be part of the cleaning process and what will be left behind is a wax finish , which protects and aids in preserving the existing finish, as it is.

    The Briwax finish and wax luster that is provided by this process, will in many ways protect the patina that has been acquired over time with no alteration to it, and will bring it out in an aesthetically pleasing way, such as to make the piece, as it is, worthy of display.

    I would suggest using the Briwax Light Brown or Rustic Pine , and when and if needed do maintenance waxings with the same.

    In other words, just a good simple cleaning and waxing with the Briwax is all I would suggest be done, and stay away from using words and actions such as refinishing, as that is exactly what you do not want to be doing.

    Hope we can be of help, Larry

  • Topic: H
  • Question: H
  • Response: H
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  • Topic: Briwax on a mantle clock

  • Question: I have a 1881 circa mantle clock that needed repairs to the case. The repairs turned out quite nicely but I need to try and match the finish around the repair area. The case finish is a dark brown color but the actual wood is lighter in color. I understand your finish comes in colors. Can your finish be used for refinishing this antique clock? If it helps it is a New Haven Clock Co. 1 day strike clock. Any suggestions that you have that will allow me to complete the repairs would be greatly appreciated. Regards,David Storms

  • Response: Yes it probably can. I would suggest getting the color of the repair to match the surrounding finish closely. Use dye or stain and maybe overcoat with our Shellac Sanding Sealer if you are trying to match to a varnish. Then use the Tudor Brown Briwax to tone and luster the area. The Briwax will not make the match for color, but will tend to disguise the repair. The Briwax will provide an opaqueness to the light reflecting off the finish, thus there is a blending effect and the eye is not drawn to the slight variation in color or grain tone. It is usually most effective without altering the finish a great deal. As always make a test first. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Repairing Some damage on a table surface
  • Question: Hello, I have a table which I finished using light brown Briwax. My children have gotten marker, crayon and paint on the table, which will not come out. Can I sand the table down, re-stain and reapply more Briwax, or do I need to remove the waxed finish somehow? Thanks, Brian A. Russell
  • Response: You could sand and reapply the Briwax. I would suggest a reapplication of the Briwax, but in using it for damage like you have, the idea is to utilize the solvent in the fresh Briwax to work at the problem areas. Use Extra Fine steel wool (0000) and work at the areas where there are problems, vigorously. Keep the steel wool loaded with fresh Briwax, it is the solvent in the fresh Briwax which is doing the work as well as the wool. This should remove or work through the problem areas and then apply or use the Briwax as you would normally applying a thin film and let the solvent evaporate off, and then buff to a luster.

    If you are wanting to remove the damage and wax as well to apply a different finish, wash down with mineral spirits or sand off.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Liming Wax
  • Question: I had a customer with some questions on liming wax and I can't seem to find the answer.... She has an area which is 23 feet x15 feet will one can of liming wax be enough? What is liming wax made of, i.e., is it petroleum based? Tina
  • Response: It might do this size area, but depends on the amount pushed down into the open grain, but I would get 2 tins. It is a blend of wax and liming paste, and like all waxes uses a solvent to keep the blend emulsified until it is applied, and then the solvent evaporates off. The liming wax is not intended to be a finish wax like Sheradale or Briwax. It is super white, intended to lay in the open grain & pores of the wood to make the Limed Effect and then over coated with a Finishing Wax. Often the wood grain is opened a bit with a bush so that more wax lays in the grain.

    If someone wants to overcoat with urethane or lacquer, the same effect can be achieved by using White Grain Filler, and then overcoat with poly or something similar.

  • Topic: Coverage Question
  • Question: Dear Representative, I was not able to find coverage information at your Web site. How much will a 1 lb. can cover? I am doing a chest type dresser and night stand (both unfinished pine). Will a 1 lb. can be adequate? Thanks, Dave
  • Response: Go to the Tech & data sheet link provided on this page http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/briwax.htm or click here. http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/prodinfo.htm#Briwax Original The info you need should be there. If not let me know, Thanks, Larry
  • Topic: Briwax as a Stain and finish for kitchen cabinets
  • Question: Thank you for responding to my inquiry. The information I was needing was for new, unfinished cabinets and doors. This is a new house. We understood that you carry a stain wax that you apply as a stain and also includes a wax finish. Is that correct? If not, I thank you for your trouble. Cheri Foster
  • Response: "apply as a stain and also includes a wax finish" --- Yes it sort of works this way, but better to understand it as a pigmented wax that tones in the direction of the color chosen. If there is a color you are trying to achieve, do so with a dye or stain first, then use the Briwax to tone up and enhance that. Generally, for normal use kitchen cabinets, a wax finish is not an ideal one, which is why I expressed some hesitation. Wax finishes do not work well around water or where they is excessive wear and tear to the surface, i.e. use hard wearing poly's etc. If you were trying to enhance some existing cabinets, Briwax can work exceptionally well. And some areas, such as the door etc. could be finished with Briwax with reasonably good success. Wax is more of a maintenance type finish, which works very well over fine woodwork and cabinetry where the grain and appearance of the woodwork is of utmost importance to develop patina and appearance without affecting the aesthetic quality of the woodwork, only enhance it. Wax is very durable in terms of a lasting finish, but does not stand up to abrasion well. i.e.: It works well on a floor where there is little leather sole traffic and grit.

    So if the cabinets are more of a furniture type thing, then the Briwax could work extremely well. But if this is a kitchen to be used as a work center, then you should understand Briwax and wax finishes before jumping to using them under these circumstances.

    Briwax works well on doors and interior woodwork, but from the previous, you can see that the surface use of the finish would be much different. Generally, we would highly recommend the Briwax for interior doors and this type wood work. Again, if color change is important, we would recommend doing so first, then using the Briwax to tone. Also, a more durable and even luster can be achieved if the substrate is sealed with a Shellac Sealer first. You would apply a stain or dye first if needed.

    Another thing about Briwax, is it is very forgiving and repairable. The quality of the wax finish is enhanced over time as it is used, which is so different than any other finish. it acquires charm and fine patina over time as it is used. Hence, its' use on fine woodwork. Hope this is of some help, Larry

  • Topic: Reproducing Antique Irish Pine Furniture
  • Question: Dear Sirs, As I am rather new to reproducing antique furniture, I need some help. I've been directed by everyone on God's green earth to your company for your products; specifically, the wax that carries your namesake, and Briwax 2000. Since every reproducer and refurbisher of fine antique Irish pine farmhouse furniture, with whom I've spoken about the craft, seems to use your product for the beautiful finishes on his/her work, I suppose you would have an idea about what would work in my situation. Which color of your Briwax and Briwax 2000 waxes comes closest in finished appearance to the typical honey-color of antique Irish pine furniture? I will be attempting this result on plain, sanded, unfinished naked pine. Thank you for your time. Sincerely, Matthew T. McGaha
  • Response: Since you know what it is you are trying to achieve, I would highly recommend doing some 4x4 samples using some various techniques and finishes. You may wind up with some finishing materials that will set on your shelf a while, but if you are truly trying to duplicate a look, the money and time spent will be well worth it. There is no way we can say do this and you will achieve what you are looking for. Differences in materials, technique, application and desired appearance are too varied.

    Generally color and patina is achieved first, then use the Briwax, usually Lt. Br or Gold Oak, to highlight and tone the patina up. The Briwax will also add a nice luster, warm type glow, where the light refracts within the wax as opposed to a surface reflective shine.

    Check out these 2 links, you may find them helpful. Also, the StaynWax -Antique Pine's intention is to replicate this amber effect. I believe you would still want to overcoat with Briwax. Also, some of the dyes might be of use. And of course you might want to try the lye route.



    Hope this is of some help. Larry

  • Topic: teak oil or not?
  • Question: Do you recommend teak oil on outdoor teak furniture for people who live in the mountains? Will I have problem with mildew or black spots due to our damp cool nights? Is there a better way to protect teak?
  • Response: The Teak Oil is an excellent outdoor treatment. It will need to be reapplied as all sealers of this nature need to be. It is a blend of Linseed oil, varnish, dryers etc. that works very well on these type woods.

    Mildew & black spots do not have much to do with the finish and need to be dealt with separately, although once sealed their presence will be mostly on the surface of the treatment and should be easier to deal with.

    Fungicides etc. are what you need to check into, but best to check with the local deck people for the proper treatments etc. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: water rings
  • Question: Hi, I set a flower pot on a dresser and after a few days I moved it away and a large water ring was left behind. What can I do to remove this water ring?? Please advise me. Thank you in Advance for your help!! Sincerely, Heather Beckett
  • Response: A couple of options. First for both options, try the Briwax Reviver. Then, if it is a wax finish or old finish, then try Briwax (Lt. Brown or something close in color) with 0000 steel wool.

    If it is a varnish, urethane or lacquer you could try Briwax Liquid Glass. Either option may not remove it entirely, but it will improve or remove it entirely. Larry

  • Topic: antiquating pine
  • Question: Just ordered some material from you. Was wondering if you had any suggestions on staining and antiquating pine, also about a wax finish? does it need to be sealed first or is wax enough? I heard of some wax finishes that were first sealed with shellac. thanks RON
  • Response: Sorry not to have gotten to you sooner.

    Wax, particularly a hard finishers wax like Briwax, excels when used in conjunction or over a sealed surface, whether a new oil or old varnish. The purpose of our Shellac Sealer is to provide such a surface over unsealed woods. It hardens up the top grain, fills in open pores & grain, thus holding the wax at the surface, so it is more uniformly thin. Optimally thin is when a wax such as Briwax is at its' best in terms of hardness & luster. Now if you are trying to build up the wax layer and utilize it for antiquating a finish, most of the previous is out the window.

    My suggestion in this area is always to impart by other means the patina & color you are trying to achieve, and then utilize the wax to tone and luster the antiqued finish. When approached in this way, a much truer look and appeal is achieved.

    Our StaynWax Antique Pine does a fine job for providing color and a realistic unevenness of color tone. I need to get more info on the web about it. But it is important to try it first by preparing a sample. I have used it and am quite satisfied. But it is still intended to be over coated with Briwax, again for tone, depth and luster.

    And of course there are the mechanical type things, whether you use an awl, beat the item with a chain, sand away at the typical wear areas etc.

    Antiquating the pine, certainly depends most on what the item is and to the extent of originality you are trying to achieve. But if done for even some quick success, is a combination of mechanical abrasion, imparting color and range, and then utilizing the wax to bring out the underlying beauty - i.e. don't rely on just the Briwax, use it to bring out the beauty of your work.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Re: floors
  • Question: I want to use Briwax liming wax on a new floor, but I want to create a pattern--sort of a stenciled effect, with dyes AND liming in places. I'm confused about what you can put over a coat of Liming Wax--can I seal the floor conventionally, with a Verathane- type finish, or am I limited to Liming Wax and Briwax? The data sheets contradicted the descriptions of some products, and now I'm totally confused. Also, is there a retail distributor of Briwax in Seattle? Thank you! D. Gleason
  • Response: First I would like to understand where there is a contradiction in the data sheets ? If there is please point it out. You are correct that only a wax can be used over Liming Wax. But the waxes, either Briwax or the Liming Wax can be used over either the water base or spirit dyes. You can not use Verathane over Wax, but can use Verathane over the Water Base or Spirit Dyes.

    Waxes must be the last over something else, and only a wax can be used over a wax.

    If you are going to use Verathane, my suggestion would be to use the White Grain Filler. Then you can do what you want over it, without complication of compatibility problems. It also will take stain/dye, where the waxes will not.

    Briwax Liming Wax is not intended for use on floors either, but over coated with Briwax would provide a harder wax finish. But are waxed floors really what you want ? Sounds like Verathane, so use the White Grain Filler to achieve the Limed effect, and you will have greater durability. The Liming Wax and grain filler are only available mail order or on line below. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Child's Crib
  • Question: I am building a baby cradle out of Honduras Mahogany and was wondering which of your products you would recommend for finishing. Thanks,
  • Response: There are products which we sell that I personally would not hesitate to use for a child's crib, but none are labeled as such, and therefore cannot make a recommendation in this area. And would not recommend their use. I would suggest posting your question at the newsgroup for wood working. And / or using products so labeled for use around children.

    Also, you may want to check out the use of Mahogany as a wood for a baby's' crib - are you aware that some woods are poisonous ? Will your child be gnawing on the wood ? Hopefully, you will see the problem with your question. It is a tough area to deal with. Your on your own from my stand point. Sorry, I could not be of more help. Larry

  • Topic: Briwax or Hartco Guard Wax on a wood floor
  • Question: I have heard of your waxes from my sister who is a graduate of the North Bennet Street School in Boston. I am interested in using your wax on my kitchen Hartco Maintained floor. In the past I have used Hartco Guard wax which is a carnauba based wax. Because Hartco is no longer manufacturing the maintained floors they are no longer manufacturing the wax either. Would I use the "clear" wax for the floor. I have a Regina Buffing machine which although not a commercial buffer, it is quite heavy and does a superb job Please let me know which of your products I can use. Much thanks, Bill Girolamo ,Melrose MA
  • Response 1: I believe the Briwax 2000 may be the answer. But it is a hard finishers wax, which can work extremely well on floors. In other words it is not a floor wax per say. It is carnauba based. I have several prominent people, like the Wyeths who use it on their floors. I have used it on some old oak flooring in an apartment house I own, and have been very satisfied with the extended durability. It is a little tricky to use in that the key is getting it super thin, so when using it, use sparingly. If you get any streaking, change to the coarse pad, remove the excess and it buffs up to a high luster rapidly. Be sure to try it on a sample area first to be sure it is what you want. Sorry not to have gotten to you sooner, Larry
  • Response 2: Check out this area too : http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#Streaking ; Although this info seems most applicable on furniture, the problem is very easy to occur on floors because it is so easy to put too much on. It is easy to correct on a floor as well, just change over to the coarse pad, go over the area, then change back to the fine buff, burnishing pad. As easy as tipping the buffer down, and sliding the pad under. Don't wait to see if it will buff off, remove excess immediately. Worked at this way, it is fast and easy. Larry
  • Topic: Wood Floors
  • Question: Thanks Larry, I've got some Guard wax left, but would like to try the Briwax 2000. I am very particular about my floors and with the buffing machine I have and some patience, I think it would work out just fine, thanks for the response and I'll be ordering soon. - bill girolamo
  • Response: I've used Briwax with the floor buffers. Works excellent, but particular attention needs to be paid to our comments about streaking and how to handle, and excess wax. With that knowledge and understanding in hand, I believe the Briwax is fast and easy to use on floors. Its' short coming, is it is still a wax. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Briwax Original or Briwax 2000
  • Question: Larry, You know your site very well and thank you very much for being patient and answering all of my questions. I have one more: Briwax 2000 this is the product you recommended. Is it a clear wax and is this the wax I have a choice of Toluene or toluene free? next step is to order.... thanks again!! bill girolamo
  • Response: For what you are describing go with the Clear, although Lt. Brown does a nice job at toning up grain, without imparting much color, only depth to what is existing. The Briwax 2000 is the Toluene free blend and is easier to use inside because of the low odor properties.

    Both the Briwax (original) & Briwax 2000 come in the Clear and 5 wood color tones. Larry

  • Topic: Toning with Briwax
  • Question: I have a large china cabinet and hutch made out of pine that has been stained with Briwax (color: Tudor brown). I have only had it for about three months. It's a little too dark. Is there an easy way to lighten the Briwax finish or lighten and slightly change the color to more of a honey brown?
  • Response: The Briwax color is more pronounced when applied over an unsealed surface because the wax shrinks down into the open pores and grain of the wood. When the wax is applied over a sealed surface, whether that is an old finish or what ever, the color is more of a toning effect and the wax can be, for all practical purposes entirely removed.

    In either case, going over the wax with Clear will again dissolve the wax on the surface, and leave behind the Clear and obviously tone the Tudor color down.

    If on unsealed wood, work at the surface a little harder with the steel wool, in essence working the Tudor out of the pores and open grain. You will not be entirely successful at removing the Tudor, but it should tone it down utilizing the Clear. Then maybe go over that with the Gold Oak. Sorry we could not be of more help. A test sample maybe would have been of help. Hope we have been of some, Larry

  • Topic: Wood Floors and using a buffer
  • Question: Larry, below are the Briwax's site instructions on the use of Briwax on floors. It is Briwax 2000, they are referring to is that correct? Also, I would want the toluene free product. The site talks about different colors, But I would want to purchase the clear again thanks for the information - bill girolamo
    BRIWAX may be used on wood floors for a beautiful luster that resists scratching and never yellows. Apply sparingly with a cloth or scrub brush to a 24 x 24 area. Allow to dry 10 - 60 minutes. With a clean lint free cloth, buff to a rich shine. An electric buffer, either small home model or commercial rental type may be used to save time. If an electric buffer is selected, apply a golf ball size amount of BRIWAX directly under the buffer. Working an area 4' x 7', move the buffer quickly over the area to spread the BRIWAX to a even coat. Now go back over the same area more slowly to work the BRIWAX into the surface, picking up any dirt and begin to show a slight luster.
  • Response: Check out this area too : http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#Streaking Although this info seems most applicable on furniture, the problem is very easy to occur on floors because it is so easy to put too much on. It is easy to correct on a floor as well, just change over to the coarse pad, go over the area, then change back to the fine buff, burnishing pad. As easy as tipping the buffer down, and sliding the pad under. Don't wait to see if it will buff off, remove excess immediately. Worked at this way, it is fast and easy. Larry
  • Topic: Guitar Necks
  • Question: Thank you. I'm looking forward to trying Briwax on my guitar necks. Tom Hein
  • Response: Use sparingly. Work well into the finish or grain. For what you describe, after applied, let set a little bit till solvent evaporates off, -- begin the buffing process with extra fine, 0000, steel wool. Do so lightly to remove excess wax. Take the pad of wool and unroll it into a sheet. Lightly go over the wax, till you start to see some luster, and the wool literally glides with no drag over the wax. Switch to cotton, or something similar, (our Pine Brush), and burnish.

    If it looks like it needs another coat because the wax has shrunk in to the open pores of the wood, do another coat. But the key to using this product is one optimally applied - thin coat. Not coats or coats with thickness. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: A Picnic Table & Misc. stuff
  • Question: Many years ago (about 12), I purchased a can of original formula Briwax (Antique Mahogany). I bought it from a person who had a display at a craft show, and I had intended to refinish a piece of furniture using it. I did not refinish that piece, and in fact, I forgot about the Briwax. I found the can of Briwax again lately, and I used the whole can this weekend on an essentially unfinished picnic table. This picnic table is several years old, made of treated lumber and in excellent condition. I tried the Briwax on a scrap piece of lumber first; the water beaded right off and the color was very nice. The picnic table wood had turned somewhat gray and needed only a light sanding first -- I then cleaned it off and applied the Briwax with a soft cloth. The Briwax went on beautifully and the table looks absolutely wonderful. The one can, though, was only enough to cover the top and the seats.

    My intent was to let the table "cure" for a couple of days and then buff it very well with a clean, soft cloth. I was hoping this would make it totally color safe so that one could sit on the seats without danger of coming away with any residue on one's clothing. I also thought I would try to purchase more of the product to give the table another coat, and perhaps annually.

    The picnic table was originally stained & varnished, but that didn't last long. I then tried a deck sealer type of product, but that also didn't last long, and it did not protect the table at all. Thus, I was very happy to see the water beading off the top of the table after applying the Briwax.

    Now I see on your website that this product is "not suitable for exterior use". Could you please tell me why? The table does sit in direct sun year round on a deck attached to our home.

    Also, when I purchased this product so many years ago, I was under the impression that it was specifically for finishing furniture. However, the information provided in your website appears that Briwax can be used similar to a furniture polish (on already finished furniture). Is that correct? Because I have an oak dining set that has a couple of small areas on the table top that are very slightly water damaged -- would your product help to restore those areas? If so, should I use the "furniture cleaner" first and then the Briwax/Briwax 2000? Thank you, Julie Tyrrell

  • Response: No wax wood finish, including Briwax is suitable for exterior use. There are many wood finishes in this category, for interior use only.

    Wax does not cure or harden in the fashion you are thinking, like varnish, lacquers or urethanes. Wax is wax, just like the paraffin's used on top of jelly containers, they are just a different blend with other things thrown in - but still wax. Briwax is at its best when optimally thin, that is also when it is at its' hardest sheen (burnished). But it is still wax, and relative to a plastic urethane is soft. You can not get the soft warm glow luster of wax and the hard impervious mirror plastic gloss in the same product.

    For your picnic table, I would recommend our Teak Oil. It is designed for what you describe, but will need reapplication, similar to the other sealers you have tried.

    Yes, the Briwax could be quite suitable for the enhancement of your oak, but trial is the best way to start. Waxes can be used directly over bare wood, and Briwax is often used this way. But a better, more uniform and durable finish is achieved when used in conjunction with another sealer, sealed surface, old finish or finish. Wax is an enhancer, Briwax is excellent at toning up and bring out the finer points to grain and color.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Wood Dyes
  • Question: Can the above dyes be sprayed on pine, left to dry and then coated with a polyurethane clear finish? thanks
  • Response: Yes, but any excess dye, or dyestuffs would need to be wiped off first. Basically, as any other stain/dye would be used. Larry
  • Topic: Shellac Sealer
  • Question: I have a question about your Shellac Sanding Sealer. Can this product be used OVER a penetrating stain (such as Minwax) but UNDER a wipe on poly finish? I use your waxes as a finish all the time -- they are great. I just recently learned about the Shellac Sanding Sealer on your web site and don't know much about it. Thank you for your help. Thom Camacho
  • Response:As to being used over a stain or dye, that should be quite fine, so long as it has cured, such that the carrying agent (solvent) of the stain will not try to bleed through.

    As to the urethane being used over Shellac, what would be the point ? What is there to gain ? I would follow the instructions of the urethane manufacturer.

    Shellac Sanding Sealer fills in open grain and pores of the wood, thus making the next application of material, wax or other material such as French Polishes, Varnishes, more even and uniform and seals the other natural oils in the wood. Some people use the Shellac Sanding Sealer as a French Polish, by applying several applications.

    Generally, I believe with poly this is done with a second coat, but following the directions on the can is best here. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Shellac Sealer
  • Question: Thanks very much for your advice. Regarding the use of varnish or urethane over the sanding sealer, the point here is for greater protection as I am considering this for a dining room table I made. I assumed that varnish/urethane would have greater resistance to scratches/water than a sanding sealer alone as a final top coat. My question was simply one of compatibility. I look forward to seeing the Briwax line of products (other than wax) in retail stores soon. Thanks again.
  • Response: Given the nature of poly, (plastic) I do not know what the Sealer would add, unless the poly maker advised its' use. Poly/Varnish for all practical purpose is poly, not varnish. None of the more natural finishes can compare in water and scratch resistance to the synthetics. As to durability in terms of time and ease of repair of the patina that would be another question. Poly will break down. Wax will not. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Briwax on floors and around the house
  • Question: I am remodeling an older home and I have wood flooring throughout that I want to refinish. I also have had some cabinets built out of maple. I want to put a clear finish on both in order to bring out the grain and natural beauty of the wood. Can I use Briwax as the primary finish on the cabinets and floors or should I apply clear varnish first and use Briwax as a secondary protection? Any information you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
  • Response: Briwax is a hard finishers wax. In the world of waxes, I believe it to be the best, and when used properly will provided the hardest wax finish available in a wax. Your question really is - is a wax finish suitable for your purposes. Very often wax is fine in more places than people realize, and will provide a durable, lasting, wonderful luster that will acquire an aesthetically pleasing patina over time as it is used.

    It also can be a poor finish used in the wrong place. Your suggestion of Briwax over varnish to produce a more durable finish is good. Do remember that Briwax will not evaporate or breakdown from ultraviolet. If not worn aware or subjected to water, Briwax is most durable. In the world of finishes, wax is a soft finish, but Briwax would be a hard wax in the world of wax. Hope this has been of help. Larry

  • Topic: Danish Teak Furniture & smoke odor
  • Question:We recently inherited several pieces of Danish Teak bedroom and dining room furniture. The furniture is approx. 40 yrs. old and the finish is in need of rejuvenation. Which of your products would be best for this? Another question: The furniture was in the home of a heavy smoker all of its years and has retained the odor, especially inside the dresser drawers. How can we eliminate this problem? Thank you. Kevin Segebarth
  • Response: What is on the Danish furniture now for a finish ? Teak Oil ?

    If so, then wipe down with mineral spirits and/or our Briwax Reviver, followed by mineral spirits, and then apply Teak Oil.

    The smoke odor, I am not sure. Sounds like baking soda would be appropriate, or washing the surface with TSP. Try this question at the newsgroup for woodworking, I am sure you would receive appropriate responses.

    Hope this is of help, Larry

  • Topic: Briwax Gold Oak
  • Question: Dear Briwax staff-- I am looking for a wax with a light oak stain to use to restore an oak table. The local antiques store restorer said to use very fine steel wool , then apply denatured alcohol to clean the surface and then apply this wax. They used a KIWI light oak (chene clair) paste wax, but I can't find any of it around here. It seems that one of your products would do the job of it. Could you please advise me on this? Thanks,
  • Response: I do believe that the Briwax Gold Oak will do just fine. In actuality, my opinion, is that it will perform much better. Larry
  • Topic: White Residue
  • Question: I have just tried my first tin of Briwax. I tried it on a small section of a Queen Anne style display case I have, and it looked beautiful. I tried it on a larger hidden section, and it still was gorgeous. However, when I tried it on one of the legs, I noticed a white haze-like film after I started buffing it. I buffed longer and the white haze turned into streaking which appears to go with the grain of the wood. This does not appear on the entire leg, just in a couple of places (the top and the foot). What caused this and how do I get rid of the streaking? I am reluctant to apply the wax to the rest of the cabinet until I know how to prevent this from happening again (or at least what causes it and how to correct it). Please help me quick! Linda
  • Response: Your problem is excess wax. A common problem with using Briwax. Wax is not about a coat or coats, but an optimally applied, singular thin layer. It is at this point that wax is at its' hardest & highest luster.

    Take a pad of Extra fine steel wool, unroll it to make an open sheet. Lightly go over the Briwax till the wool floats over the wax / or there is no drag on the wool from the wax. The wax at this point should also just be starting to luster. Switch over to a cotton cloth or brush or something similar, and burnish the wax.

    Click the following link for some other info. : http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#A Tip on Buffing Briwax

    Hope this is of help, Larry

  • Topic: Marble Wax
  • Question: What is the composition of Briwax Marble Wax? Will it also seal marble to some degree?
  • Response: I am not sure of the exact composition, but it is a blend of waxes, including Carnauba, emulsified by solvents which evaporate off. It is formulated for use on Marble, thus called Marble Wax. So the marble would be sealed by wax. If wax is a suitable sealant for the purpose you wish to seal against, then it should work quite well. But as stated it is to provide a sheen for marble. Wax is an excellent sealant (to certain materials) and debonding agent as well.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Teak Oil for food preparation
  • Question: Could you please inform me as to whether you can use teak oil on work surfaces that are to be used for food preparation. If this is not advisable, are you able to advise on another product please? Thank you, H Jasper
  • Response: Finally, with a little arm twisting I have an appropriate but negative answer. No our Teak Oil & Danish Oil is not for use where there is direct food contact. Occasional contact after a 2 week curing would be a fine. But the answer is no for food preparation.

    This is not true on all Teak and Danish Oil blends, so you may want to look for other manufacturers.

    Sorry we could not be of more help, Larry

  • Topic: Dye Removal
  • Question: Dear Sirs, After using a water based dye on new wood, I found the color is not exactly what I wanted. Can you please tell me how to properly remove the color from the wood after it has dried. I can not seem to find this information anywhere. Please help. Thank you very much.
  • Response: By washing the surface with hot water and then sanding. Aniline dyes are intended by design to be carried deep into the wood. Water does this well. Total to partial removal of the dye stuffs will be dependent on the depth of the dye into the wood and the depth of your removal process. This will be something you will need to balance out as to what is acceptable or you can live with. Also, when washing away the dye, I caution you about some of the pigments being carried deeper as well.

    It is always important to do a trial sample before proceeding on anything of this nature to assure compliance with ones' expectations. You might want to post your question at the woodworking news group for more definitive help or even some better and more appropriate suggestions. It is very good for this sort of thing.

    Wish we could be of more help, Larry

  • Topic: Briwax and Toluene
  • Question: Dear Sirs, Could you give me some information please. A friend was telling me that it can be dangerous to use Briwax as it contains toluene which is carcinogenic and also can give rise to very bad headaches. I was very interested and decided to look this up on the internet. I have found your web site very helpful and now know that I can find Briwax without Toluene. We live in an old house which we renovated and have a lot of stripped pine, e.g. staircase doors and furniture most of which is finished with Briwax. We have been here about eight years and during that time I have been plagued by severe Migraines and have not been able to specifically identify what the cause is. I do not know if there could be any connection between this and the toluene, and I suppose as you are selling it, it might be a difficult question for you to answer, however I would be most grateful if you could respond. Perhaps there may be a good reason for me removing the finish off the various wood fittings and finishing again with Toluene free. Please could I have your comments. Juliet Watkins
  • Response: Your friend has misled you with partial information. All petroleum distillates, to the best of my knowledge are carcinogens. When was the last time you watered the garden with mineral spirits, one of the most mild of solvents and carcinogenic as well. When you pump your gas, the fumes you are breathing are carcinogenic. When & if you apply fingernail polish, you are applying toluene. Read the labeling at the gas pump. Assuming of course you pump your own gas, we do here, but I know many places there are still attendants. As to the Briwax Original containing Toluene, that is true. All waxes and finishes, require a solvent of some sort. Most are a petroleum distillate. All waxes that I know of use a pet. solvent. No pet. solvent is truly friendly, contrary to all the competitive hype. i.e. petro the garden. The further misinformation is to think the solvent is still present. The solvent is present for a short period of time, very short and very thoroughly for Toluene. It evaporates off, leaving behind wax. A rather inert very stable material. It is only when the solvent has evaporated off entirely that the wax can be finished off. True of all waxes. Waxes which use an inferior solvent would be more suspect of the type problem you pose, because evaporation is inferior to the Toluene. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Buffing Briwax with a brush
  • Question: Have recently finished using Briwax on a conference table with turned and fluted legs. Although I did not notice you mentioning this in published info, I applied wax vigorously with paint brush, then used another clean brush to remove excess. Then used your pine brush to buff grooves. Worked great. Is there any downside to this technique? Thanks, will be ordering more stuff soon. Doug Hebert, Jr.
  • Response: No - but I think it demonstrates a better understanding of using wax, it is not about a nice thick coat or many coats, but an optimally applied thin coat. Sounds like a good way to get there. Larry
  • Topic: Slippery Briwax
  • Question: Dear sir/madam, I have just laid a pine floor out of reclaimed timber, I have tried your rustic pine finish wax on a sample piece and it appears to be very slippery to the touch, can you tell me that if I do a full room will the surface be slippery, or should I be sealing it with some other product to prevent this? Thank you for your help.
  • Response: We are in the US, so I will forward your info request on to appropriate people in UK. But from our experience, Briwax is slippery, but provides a beautiful wax luster which stands up quite well and enhances the beauty of wood. But if a non-slippery floor is what you need then wax would not be a top recommendation by us. Larry
  • Topic: Dark Brown on a wood floor
  • Question: Larry, Thanks for the information. I want to use this wax on my existing dark hardwood floors that are wax sealed not polyurethane sealed. I have usually used Bruce hardwood floor wax but heard that Briwax would do a better job. Do you think the dark brown will work on this? Dolores
  • Response: In my opinion, underline opinion, there would be no noticeable difference between the 2 colors in this situation.

    I would comment that we cannot stress the importance of using Briwax very sparingly. That generally, excess is applied. It is almost the nature of the beast.

    So apply in a small area, wipe all excess off immediately, apply excess to the next small area, repeat until what ever you are doing has a thin film applied to it.

    Allow the solvent time to evaporate off. 30 minutes or more. Then buff it up.

    If you see any streaking or smudging, don't waste time trying to buff it off, take a pad of steel wool, unfold it to an open sheet, buff with it till you see a luster, switch back to cotton or what ever you are buffing with.

    If you work at it this way it is literally a peach to work with, and extremely fast to use. Go the route of applying a nice coat and you will make a lot of extra work for yourself.

    Briwax can be applied with a floor buffer as well. Use the previous instructions, but where you need to remove excess during the buffing step, you put on the course applicator to remove the excess, and then switch to the buffing pad when you see it start to luster. This involves pushing down on the handle and sliding the courser pad underneath. Again, very fast, so long as you don't waste time buffing when you see a streak or smudge. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Sealing before using a wax
  • Question: Hello, I am trying to establish whether or not any kind of sealing is required before applying Briwax to pine planking on a wall. I would very much appreciate advice. Many thanks, Pauline Sobotka pavla@esslink.com
  • Response: No it is not necessary. Most people use Briwax with out any sealer. But a superior finish is achieved when wax is used in conjunction with another finish product. i.e. over a sealer, polymerizing oils, etc. Our Briwax Shellac Sealer is an excellent choice.

    This strategy is best when you are thinking of using wax to its' optimum relative to hardness & luster. If you are just kind of wiping on for an antique effect or using it in other ways, these comments won't necessarily apply. Hope this helps. Larry

  • Topic: for leather.
  • Question: I have several pieces of leather furniture that need some life put back into. A friend has used your wax on leather suitcases and the effect was dramatic. I'm tempted but am concerned that it may wear off on clothes, etc. Do you have any suggestions or another product I could consider. FYI, I've used some creams and polishes designed for leather but have been disappointed with the end result. Thanks.
  • Response: It should be fine for leather. The problem of getting on to clothes is excess wax. Use it very sparingly, and buff it off very well. It should work excellent. More is not better when using wax. Least is best. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Marble Wax and food surfaces
  • Question: I am constructing the surface of a kitchen work top using quarry tiles. How suitable is your Marble Wax for maintaining the tiles in this application? Many thanks , Andrew Vincent
  • Response: The Marble wax would be an excellent choice, but all waxes use a solvent to emulsify the wax. The solvent evaporates off, leaving behind the wax film which is buffed/burnished up. If the areas do not receive direct food contact, should be quite excellent. If the tiles receive direct food contact, then you should use an appropriate product for contact with foodstuffs. Generally, the direct food contact areas are cutting boards etc., which are maintained with mineral oil.

    Should be fine, but you see the point. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Wood Doors
  • Question: Hello....I have a set of 7' Antique Double Doors which are made out of Mesquite I think. They are not sealed and have worm holes etc. in them. I don't want to stain these doors or even polyurethane them. I just want to protect them and give them a rich luster. Would this product be something I could use on them and give me the desired results? thanks...Anena Johnson
  • Response: As long as the doors are on the interior and not exposed to the elements, I do believe that Briwax would be the product of choice. It is under these circumstances that the product excels, & ultimately provides precisely, the best of any product, what you are asking for in your email. My only advise would be to use it sparingly, very sparingly, then buff and burnish it. If it looks like it needs a second coat do that, do not use this product in excess if you are trying to achieve a hard lustrous finish.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Briwax worked great - but one spot.....and on a child's crib
  • Question:Hi! First I love your products. But I am trying to touch up a wood crib. It had some scratches in it. So I sanded the scratches that were a little deep and used the Briwax. Everything worked except, one spot. It will not take the color. What should I do? Thank Betty
  • Response: I do hope you read labels.

    If the crib is a child's crib, we do not recommend use of Briwax here. Also, we would not recommend any wax or most finishes, for that matter. All waxes for wood that I am aware of, contain petroleum distillates, and with the Briwax other dyestuffs etc.

    With the Briwax, the distillates do evaporate off, and wax is left behind, which for all practical and everyday situation is very safe. But it is not edible. An edible finish, or finish which is proven and tested to be completely harmless when ingested is what you should be using here. These are difficult to find, but is what you should be doing. Or child safety paints etc.

    Of course if the crib is not a "child's" crib or is for decorative purposes the previous paragraph would not apply.

    And if the previous paragraph does not apply, sand lightly, through the finish, apply a stain or dye color with a cotton swab till the color matches closely. Go from light to dark slowly. Use the Briwax over the area to blend and tone it closer. You can get it close, but not so you can't tell.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic:......if I rub hard enough where the wax comes off.
  • Question: I recently painted and Briwaxed a dining room table. There are spots if I rub hard enough where the wax comes off. I have 6 chairs to do and want to be sure it wont come off on anyone's clothes. Can you tell me what I did wrong and how I can fix it? Your help would be appreciated! Thank You, Kim Shrader
  • Response: I would like to have known more about your chairs, but am probably safe at surmising what has happened.

    What you describe is a nice coat of wax, applied amply, then buffed somewhat to create a somewhat ok luster. Probably looks ok, but not quite right.

    But this is not the idea - wax is at its' hardest highest luster when applied optimally thin, and then burnished and buffed even thinner.

    What you should do is take a pad of extra fine steel wool (0000), open it to a cloth sheet, and lightly go over the chairs with that removing any excess wax. The steel wool should glide smoothly over the finish, and not drag on any excess wax. You should see the wax turn to a high luster. Switch to cotton and burnish the wax.

    In this state the wax is the most thin and at its' hardest state. When you run your finger across the wax surface it should glide, be slippery, absolutely no drag, if it drags, it is excess wax. Buff with 0000 steel wool, then burnish with cotton. When used properly, no wax should be able to work off on any cloth.

    This problem can also occur on hard dense finishes, where it is difficult to use a wax properly. Use Briwax Liquid Glass.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: glossy finish?
  • Question: Will Briwax work if you do not want a glossy finish? Thank you , C. Reading
  • Response: Briwax when properly used provides a luster. It is really not a gloss. Gloss finishes usually reflect the light at the surface, more of a mirror shine. With wax the light is absorbed, refracts and then bounces out. So the answer is yes it shines, glows, but no it is not considered a gloss. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Misc. -Excess Wax -& feeding the finish
  • Question: Hello! I have a new "rustic" pine kitchen table made by El Paso Imports. Too look like an old Mexico piece - the grain of the wood is very "open"/coarse/large. They tell me that they use Briwax on the tables. My family really uses this table - I'm finding water rings and places where I have to wipe off (get real--ruuub off) spaghetti sauce, the slightly colored "finish" ends up lighter.

    I LOVE the look the Briwax gives the table. But 5 or 6 times a day -- yes, three meals usually at 4 different times, snacks after school, after soccer practice, before bedtime...well I need a durable finish. Don't cringe, but I want to 1) remove the wax finish - because I think I have to then 2) apply a polyurethane, lacquer, shellac type produce/finish so the tomato sauce doesn't stain the wood and I don't get rings from dawn till midnight. So, please if you can recommend how to safely remove Briwax. The store says Mineral Spirits is indicated on your products. Should I use fine steel wool or something more course to "clean out" the grain in the wood. Is low odor Mineral Spirits acceptable? Then, what product would you recommend? Remember I want the very low sheen, almost matte appearance the table now has. So lacquer with steel wool between the 2 or so coats???? Would I then apply more of your wax over it???? I am thinking that I would not, again due to the maintenance. I also have an old (approx. 90 year old) bombé armoire in the Louis XIV style. It has beautiful veneer in cherry or mahogany and many ornate, deeply carved areas. I had been using Old English Furniture Oil for the first 5-8 years I owned the piece. Then I started using Guardsmen Furniture polish for the past 6. The poor armoire seems to drink in whatever I slather on!!!!! Makes me wonder if it is not "evaporating" as your information states. Because I also live in DRY, WARM Phoenix, it is not aging as gracefully these past few years as it had the first 80 or so! Should, or maybe I need to ask HOW do I go about reviving her? I don't want to refinish (restain...) it, just help out the appearance of her "old dry wrinkles!" A cleaner?, then a wax? then a polish? Thank you so much for your time in just reading my crazy requests. I appreciate it and look forward to your reply! MJ Pérez

  • Response 1: As to your kitchen table, I believe you have answered all your own questions , and are on the right track. But your problem sounds a little more like a problem with excess wax, and the wax not being properly buffed out. If this was done properly, your problems with the finish would be much less, but there would be a corresponding change in the color because the wax would be much thinner, but harder as well.

    As to your armoire, the whole idea of feeding the finish etc., is not sound thinking or knowledge. It sounds to me that a proper wax polish here might be a better solution.

  • Response 2: Cont'd ----- dry >wrinkles!" >A cleaner?, then a wax? then a polish?

    NO NO, Pick a decent wax or polish. Stick with the one only. Forget the cleaning, there is no finish that needs to be constantly cleaned. Don't use Murphy Oil Soap (Maybe if you left it in a barn for 100 years - then we all would be happy to clean it up for you, it would be a real treat and a great find) In our products, think in terms of the Briwax Lt. Brown, Sheradale Antique Brown or Briwax Liquid Glass. If the finish is in excellent condition, no perkiness in terms of color tone or restorative qualities needed go with the Liquid Glass or Sheradale. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Marks in the finish


  • Response: These problems are always hard to resolve without seeing them. Most actually can only be partly resolved any ways. I would use Briwax Reviver, followed by Briwax Liquid Glass for both situations. Sheradale Antique Brown or Briwax of a dark color might help to disguise what is left.

    This will do some good for sure, and may do a 75 % plus performance, which is very high for fix ups of what you describe. The Liquid Glass has performed some near 100 % finish fix ups for me. As to why and for which type of mark compared to another, I am still trying to figure out the differences in performance myself. There seems to be no real explanation. What is nice about our product is what you see is what you get. Unlike other products which evaporate off in a few days. I have found these products in my opinion, to be exceptional. I hate to remove or alter a finish too much, for fear of losing value in better pieces of furniture. Wish I could be of more help. Larry

  • Topic: .. dark cherry finish
  • Question: We have just put Watco 'Cherry' on 6 dining room chairs, no finish coats darkening using your products for the finish coat? Also have 2 antique end tables made of cherry to finish. Have not started on them yet. What of your products can we use to get the darker cherry finish? Willing to use elbow grease in order to get the smooth, rich finish. Thanks for the info. Dale Stillman
  • Response: My suggestion is to read up on wax, urethane, varnish, lacquer etc. and know something more about stains and the product you are using on cherry, a difficult wood to finish properly, but well worth the effort. We sell a book by Bruce Johnson called the Week End Refinisher (it can be found elsewhere as well) and reading your question I would highly recommend it and you would most certainly end up picking the correct methods for what you are trying to do and accomplish in the end. Otherwise we are both just groping around in the dark. It is 12.00 plus 3.50 shipping. I wish I could be of more help here, but am certain if you read up on these areas a little you will end up being much more satisfied with your finished work. Your questions would also maybe not be so vague. Sorry I can not be of more help, but I don't want to give you bad advice either. Larry
  • Topic: Briwax over urethane floor finish
  • Question: I would like to know if Briwax can be used on hardwood floors with a urethane finish. Also do you have a product for routine cleaning of the same. thanks ,Terry
  • Response: If the floors have been newly refinished or are fairly new, it will probably not work with the success you are looking for. If you are looking to tone the urethane gloss down and want to use a maintenance wax on the urethane, then the Briwax may serve your purposes ok to excellent. If they are fairly new, you should be following the instructions from the manufacturer of the urethane or use a polish made for urethane. Waxes are not usually the recommendation of choice for urethane, as I understand things.

    If the floors are old and you are looking for a product to restore them, or has a restorative quality to it, then the Briwax will probably work exceptionally well.

    The real problem here is, are you looking for the qualities of urethane or the qualities of a wax. They are 2 different worlds apart. People who swear by urethane put down wax, & people who love wax usually put down urethane.

    What are you looking for ? Your question, like so many people, alludes to wanting the best of both worlds, and in this case, it really doesn't work.

    What ever you do, be sure to do a test before proceeding ahead. To test the Briwax for your purpose is the cost of a 1 pound tin. Quite inexpensive to see if wax will be a benefit to you and serve your purpose. Hope I have been of some help, Larry

  • Topic: Heywood Wakefield Blond Finish
  • Question: Hello, I have just purchased a 1950's Heywood Wakefield set of furniture. It is clear maple finish . It has numerous scratches from 50 yrs of use . Which product would be best to touchup and maintain the finish. I believe the finish is clear lacquer. I would appreciate any help on this matter. Thanks Tom.
  • Response: I don't believe Briwax will be very helpful. The Briwax Reviver will do some helpful things, then utilize Briwax Liquid Glass. Choose from a couple of the Briwax Sticks colors to disguise some of the scratches. This will do a lot to improve and pick up the finish. Heywood Wakefield (blond, Champagne Finish, I assume we are talking about) is really tough to fix up. Beyond what I have recommended, I believe the only other thing is strip & refinish. Also, these products are the best at fixing up such a finish, in my opinion of course. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Briwax on oak veneer
  • Question: We have recently covered half our house with oak veneer which we then treated with Briwax. When we ran out before we had finished we substituted Minwax. Are we sorry? Of course, thus I am ordering more of your delightful product. Louise Tolman
  • Response: Just saw you note. You are very right, there is no comparison.

    Even people who think they know waxes often really don't understand the difference.

    There are 2 other other parts to the equation as well. Briwax when used properly will give you 2 to 4 times the coverage in area. And the other part is in the world of waxes, (which relative to finishes like poly, waxes are still soft), Briwax is a very hard wax. In my opinion the hardest. So much so that it really does qualify as an appropriate finish, but not for all areas or items.

    For overall durability it is tough to answer because wax, although softer than poly and less resistant to water & abrasion etc., will out last nearly all man made materials and when gets damaged can be so easily repaired. It is very forgiving in this respect. When damage occurs to the finish, and is re-waxed, it acquires a nice pleasing aesthetic quality, patina. Sunlight does not break down wax. So in the long run, I think the turtle wins (~) Thank you. Larry

  • Topic: High Gloss table top
  • Question: I will be using this product on my High-Gloss Cherry
  • Response: The Sheradale will work well, but for the table top it is a wax and may not buff out the way you expect. If you are familiar with using a wax or the table is finished in wax, and/or you know a wax will work for the "dense, large, open, flat surface, then Sheradale will work exceptionally well. Waxes don't always work well in these situations. You may want to consider adding Briwax Liquid Glass. It is the product for this type situation. Use the Sheradale on the sides & legs. Use the Liquid Glass on the open flat. Both products are quick & easy to use for and around the home. If you want to add the Liquid Glass you can email back or reorder at Briwax OnLine

  • Topic: Exterior use, buffet cabinet, entertainment center - all cypress
  • Question: A friend formerly employed in a cabinet shop suggested that Briwax has a product that might be good for a particular application. I am expecting delivery next month on a front door unit, a buffet cabinet, and an entertainment center for a new house, all unfinished and made from old, recycled cypress. I would like to stay fairly close to the natural color with perhaps just a bit of darkening in the finishing process. The exterior of the door unit will have to be weatherproof (south Louisiana), but it won't be exposed to much direct sun. My friend said that the crew in the cabinet shop had great success applying the Briwax to old cypress to enhance the grain and then adding a polyurethane finish. In reading the descriptions of your products I am skeptical about trying to apply poly to wood that already has a wax finish. What do you advise?
  • Response: Briwax does have all the aesthetic qualities you are looking for, and in the world of waxes is, in my opinion the hardest of finishers waxes.

    But, it is still a wood wax. None are made for exterior exposure or to serve as a barrier to the weather.

    Also, waxes are always the last thing to be applied and are often used in industry to serve as a bond barrier and release agent. In no circumstances should poly be put over a wax. In fact, it could not have worked in this order in my opinion.

    Briwax can work with some degree of success over poly, but in my opinion why would you want to do this. If you need poly, use it as intended.

    Briwax as a finish over what you describe for furniture probably will work and look wonderful. - But test & trial always. Actually this is a good rule when it comes to finishes of all items. Then what you see should be what you get.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Kitchen Table Top - Mesquite
  • Question: I have an mesquite wood table with a stained finish in it. I want to protect this table from water stains and food spills, since we will be using this table on a daily basis. I want to avoid polyurethane. I've used tung oil and a paste wax on it up to this point. I wondering if your Briwax will provide me the protection I am looking for. If you have any other suggestions please let me know. Thanks in advance for your help. Ron D'Ascenzo
  • Response: Briwax is basically a very hard finishers wax. When burnished properly, there is no real comparison to waxes which use mineral spirits as a solvent i.e. Butchers wax, Johnson, Minwax etc.

    If you are having reasonable success with a paste wax, then your results should be quite satisfactory with Briwax.

    But no waxes are really intended to stand up to "water stains and food spills, since we will be

    using this table on a daily basis".

    Wax will still be a maintenance thing. I use it on my kitchen table and like it. The table makes the kitchen look nice, particularly with the wax finish. Where you sit to eat, needs to be waxed once per month, but it often goes several. Where the table receives no wear and tear, there is no need to wax.

    What most people don't understand about wax is it is about protecting the finish or patina below. Wax generally will trap or hold damage such that it does not harm the finish or patina below. Yes it can be used as finish by it self, but it is the combination i.e. used over stains, sealers etc. where it excels.

    Another quality is damage or patina that a piece of furniture acquires over time becomes aesthetically pleasing when waxed out,and re-waxed, etc. etc. over years and time, it acquires charm with wear & tear. Not so with the plastic based finishes, varnishes etc. I have had great success as well with reviving old finishes that were waxed, looked totally gone, rewax them, and they are as wonderful as the day they were put away in the barn. Wax is a most stable material.

    So if it is impervious durability use poly or something similar, and quite frankly most people and the furniture they have is best with poly. But when damaged be prepared for a refinish. Not so with wax.

    If you have a nice piece of furniture, which it sounds like this might be, then it probably will become very nice waxed out & used over time and maintained with wax. The amount of maintenance will be relative to the amount of use the finish receives. A bureau in a bedroom, may not need to be re-waxed to regain luster but every few years. Wax does not evaporate or breakdown even, in direct sunlight.

    But you really can't have the best of both worlds in this case. Briwax,although in the world of waxes, in my opinion is the absolute best, is still wax. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Danish Oil - drying off
  • Question: Does a Danish oil finish actually "dry" out over a period of time so that it has to be reapplied every so long? I have just made a deacon's bench out of oak and I like the idea of using Danish on it because there is minimal work, but I am giving this as a gift and don't want it to look lifeless in a couple of years.
  • Response: Danish Oil is a polymerizing oil, therefore it dries, cures and hardens. So what you see should be what you get. Temperature extremes will have an effect, as well as wear & tear. It will need to be re-oiled dependent on the amount of wear & tear, unless of course you place it where it is not used, maintain a constant temperature, then you should not have any problem. Hope this helps, Larry
  • Topic: Steinway Upright Piano
  • Question: Briwax, I have a 15 year old ebony finish Steinway Upright Piano. It is not the high gloss type black, just a plain black finish. For years our cat has been sneezing on the finish and I don't know what to use to clean it. Is your Briwax original formula safe for painted wood? I tried your liquid cleaner and it seemed to soften the paint. It works fine on the dining room set though. Perhaps Briwax 2000 is safe for paint, though I need the strongest cleaner that won't take off or soften the finish. In case your wondering, I heard about your product on a handyman radio program. I will look forward to your reply. Thank you. Regards, Salvatore A. Sobkowski
  • Response: I am not sure what to advise. The Briwax should always be tested or tried out, but this information is true of all products of this nature. As to softening paint, I know of know paints, cured, which should be a problem. It is used a great deal over many type paints for the effect it produces. But is you black piano finish paint ? Briwax has a solvent, as all waxes do, which evaporates off - rather quickly, but you know this. If the solvent in the Briwax is softening the finish, it may not be paint. The Briwax 2000 still uses a strong solvent, low odor, xylene. All waxes use a solvent of some type.

    We have a product called Liquid Glass which sounds like the product you should be using. It will not change the finish, just enhance what is there. And it is a cleaner and general purpose polish. It truly is a super product.

    Although Briwax will clean, it is primarily a hard finishers wax. So your final purpose with Briwax should always be a final buffed & burnished wax luster. Briwax does have some restorative qualities as well in its' ability to disguise markings and present patina in an aesthetically pleasing way. Wish I could be of more help. Larry

  • Topic: Furniture in a dry house
  • Question: Our house current has less than 30% humidity and temperatures in the upper 70's. While we are not uncomfortable our furniture is drying out. We've only lived here for a year and already I've noticed a difference. Many of the pieces are over 30 years old. I'm also worried about the newer pieces purchased last year. What can we do to restore and prevent further damage? Family members have respiratory problems so caustic products or those with strong odors need to be avoided. Thank you for your help. Mark Liberson
  • Response: You have touched on an area where this is a lot of misinformation & hype, especially when it comes to marketing various products for furniture.

    First of all, if your furniture is drying out over a length of time, not seasonal changes, there really is not much that can be done, and none of the "finish feeder" products can stop this and actually contribute to the problem.

    The problem for the most part is furniture made from woods which have not been fully seasoned. This is expensive to do and how many people really check in to this when buying furniture. But there really is nothing that can be done.

    Wax will help with the seasonal fluctuation of humidity and the other solution, such as what museums do is control the humidity. The wood in your furniture will eventually achieve the same humidity as the environment. this is natural, and just the way it is. You can not moisturize wood with "oil", contrary to advertising hype. Wax will slow down the seasonal changes such as the dryness of winter to the higher humidifies of summer. and vice-versa.

    As to the caustic nature of finish materials, I am not sure what to say. All these products have some sort of solvents. As for our wax, Briwax, the solvent is strong but present only for a short time. Then you are left with just wax. The solvent very rapidly evaporates off and then you are left with just wax. A very stable & inert material. For the most part harmless. This is basically true of all the products, so as to moving entirely away from solvents when using Briwax products, it can not be done.

    Caustic, to my understanding, is to describe acid (base) reactions. Solvents do not act like acids/bases.

    You will have to judge the overall caustic nature and effect on your particular environment yourself. I can supply you some info. If there is a problem in any way, you should not use them. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Refinishing new walls
  • Question: I refinished my basement, with 8" pine planks I would like to know what I can use to protect the wood. I can't use anything thing that has a heavy smell. I will have to use something that is odorless. This is new wood. I was wondering if a wax would leave a clear finish and not darken the wood. I would like to keep it as bright as possible. Thank you, Kenneth Hookenson
  • Response: Wax is nearly odorless after it is applied. But all waxes have solvents to keep the wax in paste form for application. With Briwax the solvent evaporates off in less than 30 minutes after being applied. Clear Briwax over our Shellac Sanding Sealer would provide a nice finish, but I would suggest making a sample for yourself before proceeding. Both products while in use will leave a heavy smell till the solvents have evaporated off & been ventilated. Hope this has been of help. Larry
  • Topic: Briwax on Acrylic
  • Question: Can the Briwax be used over acrylic paint? I plan to distress the piece and want to further age it with the Briwax, darkening the paint and staining the areas where I sand off the paint. Will this work with the Briwax? Thanks, Lorna
  • Response: Yes you should have good success with this. The wax is very stable, watch & test that the solvent in the wax does not effect the paint. This problem, if there should be one, will be immediate as the solvent evaporates off in just a few minutes for Briwax. Then you have just wax.

    I would caution you to experiment a little before trying it on your final piece. Wax, unlike paints or urethanes or finishes which harden through a chemical reaction, will not build to a coat or coats of thickness if one is trying to achieve luster. So where you try to build the wax in the edges or cracks to build grunge, or to build a coat of thickness with the wax to effect a darker tone, the wax will be sticky and may not be acceptable, although in the cracks and inside corners it usually is ok sticky. Wax is at its' hardest & highest luster when it is at its' optimal thinness. Unfortunately, this is when the wax has its' mildest effect for tone of color.

    Generally, try to achieve the color and antiquating effects you desire first, then utilize the wax accentuate them, by providing luster & depth to the existing color & effects. When the underlying effect is what you want, & then Briwax is used to provide luster and protection & tone depth, the effect is exceptional. When you rely a lot on the wax to provide these antiquating qualities and effects, you miss the point of the use of a high quality wax, and ultimately wind up using the wax in a wrong way. It still usually works out, but not with optimum success.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Maintaining a Table Top
  • Question 1: To Whom it may concern: WE recently purchased a table for our kitchen. The finish is lovely and we would like to keep it that way. Which product would you suggest using to maintain a finish of a table that gets lots of use by a family of five and gets wiped after every meal. Thanks Carol Wessel
  • Response 1: What is on it for a finish now ? Larry
  • Question 2: Dear Larry, We aren't sure what is on it now. It doesn't appear to be a shellac type finish. It has a sheen but isn't really shiny and frankly doesn't appear to be very durable. I am wondering if some sort of shellac or polyurethane would help maintain the finish or if we should just use wax. Can you help? Thanks Carol Wessel
  • Response 2: I think your best bet would be to buy the book I have for sale called the Weekend Refinisher by Bruce Johnson. First of all you need to know what is on it for a finish to somewhat answer your question. What finish are we trying to maintain or improve ? These type questions are very well explained out in this book.

    When you throw out the word durable, what kind of durability are you looking for ?

    I use Briwax on my kitchen table & love it. But it requires maintenance & reapplication. The table is getting beat up and with every rewaxing improves in appearance.

    If you wish to put down a finish that improves with age, shellac & wax are great. Danish Oil or Teak Oil & wax are great too.

    For durability, polyurethane may be your better choice, but it does not improve with time & abuse (patina). The look is usually not considered very good. And when damage does occur, which it will, you are faced with a refinish job for the whole table.

    To be quite frank, it is not possible in this case of table tops to have the best of both worlds, unless you go with a natural and pleasing finish, and then cover it with a sheet of glass.

    Given what I know of the finish you have, I would recommend using Briwax Liquid Glass for now. Do some research and a little experimenting, and then make a choice which will suit you needs. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Problems on an old roll top desk
  • Question: I recently purchased an old 1920's oak wood roll top desk. I cleaned the wood per the antique store owners specs..using a fine steel wool and an oily hand cleaner stuff. I then applied a wax with cherry stain with a brush about a week later. My neighbor supplied me with the was, as he refinishes for a profession. I am not sure what brand the wax was, but I was supposed to brush on, leave on for a while and rub to a shine with a cloth. Two weeks later, I am still rubbing, and the stain wax is still coming off on everything. I do not want to get any more advice from my neighbor and want to know how to fix it and with what products. The reason I used the stain wax, was to maintain as much of the orig. form of the desk. This seems abnormal to me, I can put a letter on the desk and an hour later, it has soaked up some of the stain. Is it because the wood is too hard and it isn't accepting the treatment. Please help and advise me what to buy or do next! I hate to think I have ruined my dear desk! Thanks
  • Response: "I then applied a wax with cherry stain with a brush about a week later." -- Never apply wax with a brush. (Like a paint on coat, brushed in - brushed off is ok) "but I was supposed to brush on, leave on for a while and rub to a shine with a cloth. " -- This is the general idea. "The reason I used the stain wax, was to maintain as much of the orig. form of the desk" - Briwax when used properly will maintain, enhance & protect an existing finish better than about any polish.

    Wax is intended to be applied for one single optimally applied thin film. Wax will only come to a luster and be at its' hardest when it is optimally thin. So to achieve this, particularly with Briwax since the solvent in the wax evaporates off so quickly, one must sort of get the wax on amply in a small area, 8x8" area say, and then immediately wipe it all all all off. Take this excess you wipe off, work in the next small area, wipe it all off. When the solvent evaporates off, which varies with different waxes, you are ready to buff off.

    The process off buffing the wax is really burnishing it down even thinner.

    What you have is a case of extreme wax. This excess must be removed, cut down, before the wax will achieve a luster or any amount of hardness. Wax relative to other finishes will still be soft, but not like you describe.

    What you need to do is take a pad of steel wool, extra fine, "0000", unroll it to a flat cloth sheet and begin buffing your wax with that. The wool cloth will like drag on the excess wax. Keep buffing it down with the steel wool, till literally the wool cloth glides over the surface with out hanging or dragging. You may go through several pads, cloth sheets. The wax should turn to a luster, and there should be no evidence of streaking wax at all. If there is streaking go over these with the wool cloth till they are removed. Switch to a cotton cloth or have a cotton cloth in the other hand and burnish the wax with this. Cotton will create a little bit of friction (heat), which will help to set the wax and bring it up a notch or 2 on the hardness scale. This is fast and easy to do, but the problem is understanding that least is best, and the idea is to get the wax optimally thin. One single optimally applied thin coat. A second coat may make the wax seem to look better, but it is not because it has added another layer, it has made the first coat more uniform & even. People who do several coats of wax, wind up taking the 4th & 5th etc. all off, if they are trying to achieve a hard wax luster. They are working for nothing.

    Wax still will be soft relative to other finishes, but this should improve its' endurance & the problem you describe considerably.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Pulling the carpet up & shining the old floor
  • Question: Hi, I am removing wall-to-wall carpeting from my hardwood floors. It looks like they have never been finished. It appears the bedrooms which did not have carpeting were done and the main floor was left bare. I want to finish them in a very natural way but must have some protection from dog and children traffic. Is Briwax a suitable finish over just bare floors? My other alternative is a polyurethane. How often would I need to re-polish the floors with Briwax? What do you recommend? Joan
  • Response: "I want to finish them in a very natural way but must have some protection from dog and children traffic"

    Briwax should be quite suitable for this. Be sure to buff & burnish it down quite well. When burnished down properly it is quite durable. Like all waxes, it will wear away by foot traffic, mostly from the soles of shoes. Socks of course will only keep the wax highly polished.

    Is Briwax a suitable finish over just bare floors?

    Briwax can be used as the only finish, but a superior product is achieved when used in combination with a polymerizing oil, such as Danish Oil. Or over our Briwax Shellac Sanding Sealer. Wax requires maintenance based on wear. No shoe traffic, no wear. I used Briwax a couple years ago on a living room floor in an apartment I own. Two years later it still does not need any re-waxing.

    What do you recommend?

    I recommend that you develop an understanding of the difference between polyurethane & wax. They are worlds apart. If you like poly, wax is a useless inferior product. If you like wax, and the beauty that wax is about, poly is an extension of the world of plastic and something we need to limit. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Saving a label on an old ice box
  • Question: I have an icebox that requires refinishing/restoring. The item has a label/decal under and undesirable finish. I want to salvage the label/decal but yet restore the piece. Do you have a product that will permit this to be done and at the same time preserve the label/decal? bohm113@aolcom
  • Response: No. This is a question that you might have better success by posting on one of the wood working newsgroups. Good luck. Larry
  • Topic: Do I use Briwax On My Floors or Not ?
  • Question: Hi there - I am not sure where to go for guidance on this, so I thought maybe you could provide some advice. If this is not what you do I understand, but here it goes. I have an older house with wood floors from the '40s that need to be refinished. I had planned to strip them and polyurethane them, but now would like to consider stripping them and using Briwax to refinish them. They definitely need to be stripped bare as they have been neglected for years.

    So, is refinishing them with Briwax realistic?

    Is it too hot in Florida for the Briwax to hold up?

    Will it cost me an arm and a leg (the two rooms total about 600 sq. feet)?

    Will they hold up, or will I spend every weekend on my hands and knees adding Briwax?

    If it is a good idea, do I just strip the floors and them work in multiple applications of Briwax?

    Again, any guidance you can provide is greatly appreciated, even if it only directing me to another resource. Thanks in advance for your help. Erika Amble

  • Response: What you need to determine is whether you want a wax finish for your floors or a poly (or similar) finish for your floors. Briwax is a high quality, very hard, wood finishers wax. Reading a little between the lines of what you have to say, it sounds more like you need a poly finish. Although, you like the qualities of a Briwax finish and really want that, you are not willing to accept what a wax finish is all about.

    ..."like to consider stripping them and using Briwax to refinish them" - Briwax does not "refinish". It provides a wax coat over what ever it is applied to. The nature of the wax is such that it enhances the the grain, accentuates the color tones of the wood and provides a wonderful luster. Inner warm glow. Qualities which when compared to poly are lacking in the plastic finish.

    ..."Is it too hot in Florida for the Briwax to hold up? " - If wax is not properly buffed down it will be sticky. this should not be a problem, but it has more to do with proper application and burnishing of the wax.

    ...If it is a good idea, do I just strip the floors and them work in multiple applications of Briwax? - It might be a good idea, especially if it were my house. I like wax and don't mind the maintenance required by its' use. Whether you strip the floors or not is up to you. Briwax will work on an old floor the same way it works on new wood. Enhancing what is there. It actually might be a good idea in your case to try it on the old finish first for a while and see if it will be satisfactory to you.

    As to multiple coats, that may not be a bad idea, but the misnomer of your statement lies in that you are still going to have only one optimally applied thin coat when you are finished, if properly applied to achieve hardness & luster. So eventually you will realize after the 3 or 4 or 5 coat, 1 coat is all that is needed if properly applied. Sometimes a second improves the first, by making it more uniform. From then on, you are doing it for the exercise.

    ..."Will they hold up, or will I spend every weekend on my hands and knees adding Briwax?" - I have an apartment which is becoming vacant. I used Briwax on the bedroom, living room & den area. the floors are quite stained, discolored hardwood floors. The wax has been there 2 years. I just inspected the apartment. The floors still look great from the original wax. I am going to get a rental buffer & just rebuff what is there. These terrible looking floors, after being Briwax were quite acceptable and had a nice quality all their own. My tenant was neat and left the shoes at the door.

    I used poly at the entries. Actually, this time around, I am going to take the hardwood out or cover it with tile or carpet at the entry. If you want to try hardwood & wax at an entry, go for it.

    But, I suggest you try the Briwax first, if even on a small section of floor for a while. You may be more partial to several coats of a good floor finish, which will build, to quite a thickness, if you so desire, and provide the impervious and durable finish you are looking for. I am a very scared individual, and I don't mind seeing a little of that in my environment. Wax, especially Briwax, enhances that scared beauty like no other product. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Durability
  • Question: Looking specifically for a finish for antiques, and reproduction that are durable. I own and run a woodworking shop specializing in antiques: repairs, refurbishing, reproductions. Wayne Scholl Owner Scholl Woodworking
  • Response: If durable should mean resistance to water, abuse etc., then wax is not a good choice. My suggestion would be to try Briwax, even if it is on a piece of scrap wood. You will quickly see if it will be what you want. I also assume your question is to Briwax Wax, & not varnishes, Teak Oil etc. If durable means time that it will last, then wax far out excels all finishes. Without more info, you question is hard to answer. Also, would appreciate knowing more of whom the question is coming from. Name and address is nice. Responding to an email address and a general question is difficult. Are you even on this continent, if you understand where I am coming from. Hope I have been of some help. Larry
  • Topic: Briwax on Chairs
  • Question: Hi! I would like to use Bri Wax on some chairs but am concerned that it will wear off on our clothes?? What is your advice on this? Thanks Jen
  • Response: Without question this is a problem for many people, but it has more to do with the finishing of the wax. Most people put to much Briwax on, then do not buff & burnish the excess off - the excess is what becomes sticky & will come off on clothing. Generally, when burnished properly this will not be a problem. I would recommend applying the wax as usual, amply in small area, immediately wipe it all off - all off with what you are applying it with. Do your whole chair this way, leaving behind a very thin, but thoroughly applied film. Thin thin thin. Let solvent evaporate off for 15 minutes or 2 weeks, it doesn't matter.

    Here is the important part - take a pad of steel wool, open it up to make an open cloth. Begin buffing with it. You will see the wax begin to luster. Move on. Do this to the entire piece. The steel wool cloth should glide over the surface - literally. If it hangs at all, it is excess wax. Buff with the steel wool, lightly till the excess is removed and it starts to luster every where. Quickly go over the entire chair in this way, & remove any excess wax with the steel wool. This is very fast to do. Then burnish with cotton or power buffer. This is very quick to do as well especially when the excess wax has been removed. Cotton will create friction which will help to set the wax up a notch or 2 in terms of hardness & luster.

    It is an optimally applied thin coat you are trying to achieve - not a coat. When you go at it this way, there is no wax easier, faster or will provide the hard luster that Briwax will provide. I use it on old beat up mission chairs and other old beat up things with great aesthetic success, and some profit as well. There is no problem with the wax coming off. But there are those who do not know how to use it, and have a problem. Wax is a case of where more is not better. Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Colors on Briwax
  • Question: Hi...would like to know more about BriWax. Noticing that it comes in different colors stumps me, as I would like to use it on a waterfall deco walnut with inlays of different woods. What color would I use or do you have a sample grouping of various colors and literature discussing how to choose????? ..... Please send me information and pricing by email or snail mail at: Jan Fosher
  • Response: I believe Lt. Brown will be what you want. You may want Tudor, or Dk if there is a lot of scratches to disguise. Color is not so important has it does not stain but tones and deepens the existing grain & color. If it is in rough shape use Dk, if not use Lt. Br. Briwax will work with a reasonable amount of success at restoring these type pieces. If the finish is in good shape, then of course it will work well. Do a test in inconspicuous area to be sure the solvent will not dissolve or harm the finish. It should not be a problem - I have used my self on these sets. I would recommend starting with the Briwax Reviver.

    Since these are hard dense finishes, the problem will be getting the wax to lay thin & flat. NO - I repeat No, excess wax. One ultimately applied thin coat is what you want - not a coat or coats or build up. If you feel another coat is required do another thin coat. When applying use steel wool (0000), work small area with ample amount, then immedialty wipe it all off. Use the same steel - other end, not particularly important, just get it as thin as possible. Take what you wiped off to your next small area. 2) Go to next small area - repeat. 3) do the entire piece. 4) Let set a short time or long time, but till solvent evaporates off, which with Briwax is quick and thorough. 5) Begin the buff/burnish step by using steel wool (0000). Unfold pad to form a sheet. Lightly go over the wax, buffing lightly, lightly !. Handle the wool with very light pressure. Where the wool drags a little, it is excess wax. Buff there a little with the wool. When the steel wool glides/floats over the surface then burnish with cotton cloth or Pine Brush. I have steel wool sheet in one hand & old tee shirt in the other. Don't over do it with the steel wool or you will remove the wax entirely. If you do, no big deal, put some more on in that area. This is the real beauty of working with wax, it is so forgiving.

    Another, route would be use the Briwax Reviver, then Liquid Glass, then Sheradale Antique Brown. The Briwax will provide a more durable wax finish, since it is a very hard finishers wax. You may want to substitute the Sheradale for Briwax.

    Hope this helps.

  • Topic: Liquefying the Briwax to apply on wood paneling
  • Question: Hello, I have just finished wood pinewood paneling my hall and have started to treat the timber with your product. I have warmed the wax to a liquid and applied it with a clean soft bristled paint brush. This appears to soak well into the wood and once dry, buffs to a high finish. Can you give your views on this type of application, is reducing the wax to a hot liquid detrimental in any way ?. Chris
  • Response: First of all, you are not liquefying wax, but a blend of waxes & an extremely flammable solvent. Be careful !!!!!!

    Many people do liquefy the wax blend before use, often by just setting in the sun, in fact it liquefies very easily. this has nothing to do with the wax, nor does it reflect on the hardness of the finished wax surface. It is the strong solvent which allows this to happen, not the wax. The solvent allows the wax to emulsify, thus giving you the opportunity to apply. Therefore harder waxes can be used in the blend makeup.

    Secondly, the stronger solvent then evaporates off very quickly, thus allowing you the opportunity to buff out the wax, which will not happen well until the solvent has evaporated off. A common problem with lesser grade blends.

    Wood does not absorb wax, but obviously some of the solvent and dye pigment is carried deeper into the wood if the liquid blend is applied as you have described.

    Your method should work fine, except that you are probably using 2-3 times as much product as needed. Try applying the way you describe, using less product and you may find that buffing and burnishing is easier to do, and a higher luster may be achieved. Wax comes to a luster, and a harder luster, at optimum thinnnnnnness, not coat or coats, or build up of coats. This product when applied liquid is very deceiving, it always looks like none is there, and it is never the case.

    Hope this helps, Larry

  • Topic: Danish Oil for food prep surfaces
  • Question: Dear Sir/Madam, I have purchased and used some of your Briwax Danish oil, and I am very impressed with the results, Is it possible / safe, to use Danish oil on food preparation areas?. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Harley Whittington
  • Response: From the manufacturer: Hi Larry, I haven't sent you a copy of the reply, because we will simply be referring this inquiry back to the local distributor in New Zealand to follow up on. As we would you. But to answer your question, there are no major contaminants in Danish Oil that would affect food contact with the exception of the dryers, which in common with all domestic paints, contain small amounts of heavy metals. Zirconium, Cobalt, Lead. They are present in small amounts only, but nevertheless they are there. The only way to ensure that it is safe would be to conduct a test on a batch to food contact regulations. This would be possible, the downside is that you would have to test every batch you made. As this is made in a normal production area, cross contamination is a problem, and so there would be no grunge that every batch complied. In any case I think that these elements would make it a marginal pass, if it did. In summary, I don't think that we should be recommending Danish Oil to be used on bowls, plates, serving utensils, but it might be OK on a work surface or table where occasional contact is feasible. I hope this helps. Alistair of HFI
  • Topic: Removing Briwax
  • Question: I like your product and the finish it gives. The question I have is how to remove it off of a piece that needs some more work. I do not want to sand it anymore or remove the polyurethane base with harsh chemicals. What will be the best way to take it off? Thanks - Bailey Corbett -
  • Response: Briwax is a paste wax. All the rules etc. about waxes apply to it. Any good wax remover will work. I would suggest a coffee can 1/2 full of mineral spirits (Sears tripolene, or paint thinner, mild solvent), use 0000 steel wool dipped in the spirits and basically wash and scrub away the wax. Dip the wool into the thinner often. Do in appropriate area and use appropriate precautions. Denatured alcohol works as a wax remover as well. This method also is super for cleaning furniture, and very inexpensive.

    TEST what I have suggested first !!! Hope this helps. Larry

  • Topic: Linseed Oil Turns Black over time
  • Question: Are the products for polishing based on various Linseed emulsions and solutions ok for a fine finish?
  • Response: Here is what some others have to say:
    • "Over time linseed oil completely deteriorates causing the finish to breakdown. Additionally, linseed oil's drying and curing time is very long. The increased dry and cure time allows moisture to remain between coats which eventually permits competing products to crack and peel and stops protecting the wood surface. Linseed oil has no waterproofing properties. Finally, over time, linseed oil turns a wood finish very dark, almost black." (http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/marine.htm)
    • "Linseed oil turns black on exposure to UV light, so its use on sun decks and patios may be a poor choice. Oils are also prone to buildup of soot from air pollution, and require periodic cleaning. Oils provide only a moderate amount protection against liquid water, so cupping may become a problem in some applications. Be sure to allot ample curing time, as most drying oils take several weeks to cure completely." (http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/9_19mcnamara2A.html)
  • "Wax itself" does not deteriorate over time, nor does it affect the substrate below or what ever it is applied too. For lack of a better scenario, wax to seal jellies. And isn't this exactly what we wish to do for a fine finish ? That is protect it , as it is, and not alter it or cause it to be altered in any way over time? The idea being to preserve the patina and aesthetic qualities the piece has acquired over time. There are many applications for Linseed Oil which are justified, but the maintenance of fine finishes and furniture in general is not one of them. And the continued misnomer that feeding the finish to protect it with an oil based linseed oil polish is not one of them. It is a falsity perpetrated by those who have not done their home work and wishing to make a sale. Waxes blended with Linseed Oil must also be studied closely, for they too can have the same affect, as one can find by simply searching out for the "good" "Ole recipes", many of which are beeswax and linseed oil. Larry Mann 1/29/04
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