Topic:
Briwax on a mantle clock Question: I
have a 1881 circa mantle clock that needed repairs to the
case. The repairs turned out quite nicely but I need to
try and match the finish around the repair area. The case
finish is a dark brown color but the actual wood is
lighter in color. I understand your finish comes in
colors. Can your finish be used for refinishing this
antique clock? If it helps it is a New Haven Clock Co. 1
day strike clock. Any suggestions that you have that will
allow me to complete the repairs would be greatly
appreciated. Regards,David Storms Response: Yes
it probably can. I would suggest getting the color of the
repair to match the surrounding finish closely. Use dye
or stain and maybe overcoat with our Shellac Sanding
Sealer if you are trying to match to a varnish. Then use
the Tudor Brown Briwax to tone and luster the area. The
Briwax will not make the match for color, but will tend
to disguise the repair. The Briwax will provide an
opaqueness to the light reflecting off the finish, thus
there is a blending effect and the eye is not drawn to
the slight variation in color or grain tone. It is
usually most effective without altering the finish a
great deal. As always make a test first. Hope this helps,
Larry
|
|
|
|
|
- Topic: Coverage Question
- Question: Dear Representative, I was not able to
find coverage information at your Web site. How much will
a 1 lb. can cover? I am doing a chest type dresser and
night stand (both unfinished pine). Will a 1 lb. can be
adequate? Thanks, Dave
- Response: Go to the Tech & data sheet link
provided on this page http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/briwax.htm
or click here. http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/prodinfo.htm#Briwax
Original The info you need should be there.
If not let me know, Thanks, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax as a Stain and finish for kitchen
cabinets
- Question: Thank you for responding to my inquiry.
The information I was needing was for new, unfinished
cabinets and doors. This is a new house. We understood
that you carry a stain wax that you apply as a stain and
also includes a wax finish. Is that correct? If not, I
thank you for your trouble. Cheri Foster
- Response: "apply as a stain and also includes a
wax finish" --- Yes it sort of works this way, but better
to understand it as a pigmented wax that tones in the
direction of the color chosen. If there is a color you
are trying to achieve, do so with a dye or stain first,
then use the Briwax to tone up and enhance that.
Generally, for normal use kitchen cabinets, a wax finish
is not an ideal one, which is why I expressed some
hesitation. Wax finishes do not work well around water or
where they is excessive wear and tear to the surface,
i.e. use hard wearing poly's etc. If you were trying to
enhance some existing cabinets, Briwax can work
exceptionally well. And some areas, such as the door etc.
could be finished with Briwax with reasonably good
success. Wax is more of a maintenance type finish, which
works very well over fine woodwork and cabinetry where
the grain and appearance of the woodwork is of utmost
importance to develop patina and appearance without
affecting the aesthetic quality of the woodwork, only
enhance it. Wax is very durable in terms of a lasting
finish, but does not stand up to abrasion well. i.e.: It
works well on a floor where there is little leather sole
traffic and grit.
So if the cabinets are more of a furniture type
thing, then the Briwax could work extremely well. But if
this is a kitchen to be used as a work center, then you
should understand Briwax and wax finishes before jumping
to using them under these circumstances.
Briwax works well on doors and interior woodwork,
but from the previous, you can see that the surface use
of the finish would be much different. Generally, we
would highly recommend the Briwax for interior doors and
this type wood work. Again, if color change is important,
we would recommend doing so first, then using the Briwax
to tone. Also, a more durable and even luster can be
achieved if the substrate is sealed with a Shellac Sealer
first. You would apply a stain or dye first if needed.
Another thing about Briwax, is it is very forgiving
and repairable. The quality of the wax finish is enhanced
over time as it is used, which is so different than any
other finish. it acquires charm and fine patina over time
as it is used. Hence, its' use on fine woodwork. Hope
this is of some help, Larry
|
- Topic: Reproducing Antique Irish Pine
Furniture
- Question: Dear Sirs, As I am rather new to
reproducing antique furniture, I need some help. I've
been directed by everyone on God's green earth to your
company for your products; specifically, the wax that
carries your namesake, and Briwax 2000. Since every
reproducer and refurbisher of fine antique Irish pine
farmhouse furniture, with whom I've spoken about the
craft, seems to use your product for the beautiful
finishes on his/her work, I suppose you would have an
idea about what would work in my situation. Which color
of your Briwax and Briwax 2000 waxes comes closest in
finished appearance to the typical honey-color of antique
Irish pine furniture? I will be attempting this result on
plain, sanded, unfinished naked pine. Thank you for your
time. Sincerely, Matthew T. McGaha
- Response: Since you know what it is you are trying
to achieve, I would highly recommend doing some 4x4
samples using some various techniques and finishes. You
may wind up with some finishing materials that will set
on your shelf a while, but if you are truly trying to
duplicate a look, the money and time spent will be well
worth it. There is no way we can say do this and you will
achieve what you are looking for. Differences in
materials, technique, application and desired appearance
are too varied.
Generally color and patina is achieved first, then
use the Briwax, usually Lt. Br or Gold Oak, to highlight
and tone the patina up. The Briwax will also add a nice
luster, warm type glow, where the light refracts within
the wax as opposed to a surface reflective shine.
Check out these 2 links, you may find them helpful.
Also, the StaynWax -Antique Pine's intention is to
replicate this amber effect. I believe you would still
want to overcoat with Briwax. Also, some of the dyes
might be of use. And of course you might want to try the
lye route.
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/lye.htm
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/stain%20wax.htm
Hope this is of some help. Larry
|
- Topic: teak oil or not?
- Question: Do you recommend teak oil on outdoor
teak furniture for people who live in the mountains? Will
I have problem with mildew or black spots due to our damp
cool nights? Is there a better way to protect teak?
- Response: The Teak Oil is an excellent outdoor
treatment. It will need to be reapplied as all sealers of
this nature need to be. It is a blend of Linseed oil,
varnish, dryers etc. that works very well on these type
woods.
Mildew & black spots do not have much to do
with the finish and need to be dealt with separately,
although once sealed their presence will be mostly on the
surface of the treatment and should be easier to deal
with.
Fungicides etc. are what you need to check into,
but best to check with the local deck people for the
proper treatments etc. Hope this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: antiquating pine
- Question: Just ordered some material from you. Was
wondering if you had any suggestions on staining and
antiquating pine, also about a wax finish? does it need
to be sealed first or is wax enough? I heard of some wax
finishes that were first sealed with shellac. thanks
RON
- Response: Sorry not to have gotten to you
sooner.
Wax, particularly a hard finishers wax like Briwax,
excels when used in conjunction or over a sealed surface,
whether a new oil or old varnish. The purpose of our
Shellac Sealer is to provide such a surface over unsealed
woods. It hardens up the top grain, fills in open pores
& grain, thus holding the wax at the surface, so it
is more uniformly thin. Optimally thin is when a wax such
as Briwax is at its' best in terms of hardness &
luster. Now if you are trying to build up the wax layer
and utilize it for antiquating a finish, most of the
previous is out the window.
My suggestion in this area is always to impart by
other means the patina & color you are trying to
achieve, and then utilize the wax to tone and luster the
antiqued finish. When approached in this way, a much
truer look and appeal is achieved.
Our StaynWax Antique Pine does a fine job for
providing color and a realistic unevenness of color tone.
I need to get more info on the web about it. But it is
important to try it first by preparing a sample. I have
used it and am quite satisfied. But it is still intended
to be over coated with Briwax, again for tone, depth and
luster.
And of course there are the mechanical type things,
whether you use an awl, beat the item with a chain, sand
away at the typical wear areas etc.
Antiquating the pine, certainly depends most on
what the item is and to the extent of originality you are
trying to achieve. But if done for even some quick
success, is a combination of mechanical abrasion,
imparting color and range, and then utilizing the wax to
bring out the underlying beauty - i.e. don't rely on just
the Briwax, use it to bring out the beauty of your work.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Re: floors
- Question: I want to use Briwax liming wax on a new
floor, but I want to create a pattern--sort of a
stenciled effect, with dyes AND liming in places. I'm
confused about what you can put over a coat of Liming
Wax--can I seal the floor conventionally, with a
Verathane- type finish, or am I limited to Liming Wax and
Briwax? The data sheets contradicted the descriptions of
some products, and now I'm totally confused. Also, is
there a retail distributor of Briwax in Seattle? Thank
you! D. Gleason
- Response: First I would like to understand where
there is a contradiction in the data sheets ? If there is
please point it out. You are correct that only a wax can
be used over Liming Wax. But the waxes, either Briwax or
the Liming Wax can be used over either the water base or
spirit dyes. You can not use Verathane over Wax, but can
use Verathane over the Water Base or Spirit Dyes.
Waxes must be the last over something else, and
only a wax can be used over a wax.
If you are going to use Verathane, my suggestion
would be to use the White Grain Filler. Then you can do
what you want over it, without complication of
compatibility problems. It also will take stain/dye,
where the waxes will not.
Briwax Liming Wax is not intended for use on floors
either, but over coated with Briwax would provide a
harder wax finish. But are waxed floors really what you
want ? Sounds like Verathane, so use the White Grain
Filler to achieve the Limed effect, and you will have
greater durability. The Liming Wax and grain filler are
only available mail order or on line below. Hope this
helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Child's Crib
- Question: I am building a baby cradle out of
Honduras Mahogany and was wondering which of your
products you would recommend for finishing. Thanks,
- Response: There are products which we sell that I
personally would not hesitate to use for a child's crib,
but none are labeled as such, and therefore cannot make a
recommendation in this area. And would not recommend
their use. I would suggest posting your question at the
newsgroup for wood working. And / or using products so
labeled for use around children.
Also, you may want to check out the use of Mahogany
as a wood for a baby's' crib - are you aware that some
woods are poisonous ? Will your child be gnawing on the
wood ? Hopefully, you will see the problem with your
question. It is a tough area to deal with. Your on your
own from my stand point. Sorry, I could not be of more
help. Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax or Hartco Guard Wax on a wood
floor
- Question: I have heard of your waxes from my
sister who is a graduate of the North Bennet Street
School in Boston. I am interested in using your wax on my
kitchen Hartco Maintained floor. In the past I have used
Hartco Guard wax which is a carnauba based wax. Because
Hartco is no longer manufacturing the maintained floors
they are no longer manufacturing the wax either. Would I
use the "clear" wax for the floor. I have a Regina
Buffing machine which although not a commercial buffer,
it is quite heavy and does a superb job Please let me
know which of your products I can use. Much thanks, Bill
Girolamo ,Melrose MA
- Response 1: I believe the Briwax 2000 may be the
answer. But it is a hard finishers wax, which can work
extremely well on floors. In other words it is not a
floor wax per say. It is carnauba based. I have several
prominent people, like the Wyeths who use it on their
floors. I have used it on some old oak flooring in an
apartment house I own, and have been very satisfied with
the extended durability. It is a little tricky to use in
that the key is getting it super thin, so when using it,
use sparingly. If you get any streaking, change to the
coarse pad, remove the excess and it buffs up to a high
luster rapidly. Be sure to try it on a sample area first
to be sure it is what you want. Sorry not to have gotten
to you sooner, Larry
- Response 2: Check out this area too :
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#Streaking
; Although this info seems most applicable on
furniture, the problem is very easy to occur on floors
because it is so easy to put too much on. It is easy to
correct on a floor as well, just change over to the
coarse pad, go over the area, then change back to the
fine buff, burnishing pad. As easy as tipping the buffer
down, and sliding the pad under. Don't wait to see if it
will buff off, remove excess immediately. Worked at this
way, it is fast and easy. Larry
|
- Topic: Wood Floors
- Question: Thanks Larry, I've got some Guard wax
left, but would like to try the Briwax 2000. I am very
particular about my floors and with the buffing machine I
have and some patience, I think it would work out just
fine, thanks for the response and I'll be ordering soon.
- bill girolamo
- Response: I've used Briwax with the floor buffers.
Works excellent, but particular attention needs to be
paid to our comments about streaking and how to handle,
and excess wax. With that knowledge and understanding in
hand, I believe the Briwax is fast and easy to use on
floors. Its' short coming, is it is still a wax. Hope
this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: Toning with Briwax
- Question: I have a large china cabinet and hutch
made out of pine that has been stained with Briwax
(color: Tudor brown). I have only had it for about three
months. It's a little too dark. Is there an easy way to
lighten the Briwax finish or lighten and slightly change
the color to more of a honey brown?
- Response: The Briwax color is more pronounced when
applied over an unsealed surface because the wax shrinks
down into the open pores and grain of the wood. When the
wax is applied over a sealed surface, whether that is an
old finish or what ever, the color is more of a toning
effect and the wax can be, for all practical purposes
entirely removed.
In either case, going over the wax with Clear will
again dissolve the wax on the surface, and leave behind
the Clear and obviously tone the Tudor color down.
If on unsealed wood, work at the surface a little
harder with the steel wool, in essence working the Tudor
out of the pores and open grain. You will not be entirely
successful at removing the Tudor, but it should tone it
down utilizing the Clear. Then maybe go over that with
the Gold Oak. Sorry we could not be of more help. A test
sample maybe would have been of help. Hope we have been
of some, Larry
|
- Topic: Wood Floors and using a
buffer
- Question: Larry, below are the Briwax's site
instructions on the use of Briwax on floors. It is Briwax
2000, they are referring to is that correct? Also, I
would want the toluene free product. The site talks about
different colors, But I would want to purchase the clear
again thanks for the information - bill girolamo
WOOD FLOORS
BRIWAX may be used on wood floors for a
beautiful luster that resists scratching and never
yellows. Apply sparingly with a cloth or scrub brush
to a 24 x 24 area. Allow to dry 10 - 60 minutes. With
a clean lint free cloth, buff to a rich shine. An
electric buffer, either small home model or commercial
rental type may be used to save time. If an electric
buffer is selected, apply a golf ball size amount of
BRIWAX directly under the buffer. Working an area 4' x
7', move the buffer quickly over the area to spread
the BRIWAX to a even coat. Now go back over the same
area more slowly to work the BRIWAX into the surface,
picking up any dirt and begin to show a slight luster.
- Response: Check out this area too : http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#Streaking
Although this info seems most applicable on
furniture, the problem is very easy to occur on floors
because it is so easy to put too much on. It is easy to
correct on a floor as well, just change over to the
coarse pad, go over the area, then change back to the
fine buff, burnishing pad. As easy as tipping the buffer
down, and sliding the pad under. Don't wait to see if it
will buff off, remove excess immediately. Worked at this
way, it is fast and easy. Larry
|
- Topic: Guitar Necks
- Question: Thank you. I'm looking forward to trying
Briwax on my guitar necks. Tom Hein
- Response: Use sparingly. Work well into the finish
or grain. For what you describe, after applied, let set a
little bit till solvent evaporates off, -- begin the
buffing process with extra fine, 0000, steel wool. Do so
lightly to remove excess wax. Take the pad of wool and
unroll it into a sheet. Lightly go over the wax, till you
start to see some luster, and the wool literally glides
with no drag over the wax. Switch to cotton, or something
similar, (our Pine Brush), and burnish.
If it looks like it needs another coat because the
wax has shrunk in to the open pores of the wood, do
another coat. But the key to using this product is one
optimally applied - thin coat. Not coats or coats with
thickness. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: A Picnic Table & Misc.
stuff
- Question: Many years ago (about 12), I purchased a
can of original formula Briwax (Antique Mahogany). I
bought it from a person who had a display at a craft
show, and I had intended to refinish a piece of furniture
using it. I did not refinish that piece, and in fact, I
forgot about the Briwax. I found the can of Briwax again
lately, and I used the whole can this weekend on an
essentially unfinished picnic table. This picnic table is
several years old, made of treated lumber and in
excellent condition. I tried the Briwax on a scrap piece
of lumber first; the water beaded right off and the color
was very nice. The picnic table wood had turned somewhat
gray and needed only a light sanding first -- I then
cleaned it off and applied the Briwax with a soft cloth.
The Briwax went on beautifully and the table looks
absolutely wonderful. The one can, though, was only
enough to cover the top and the seats.
My intent was to let the table "cure" for a couple
of days and then buff it very well with a clean, soft
cloth. I was hoping this would make it totally color safe
so that one could sit on the seats without danger of
coming away with any residue on one's clothing. I also
thought I would try to purchase more of the product to
give the table another coat, and perhaps
annually.
The picnic table was originally stained &
varnished, but that didn't last long. I then tried a deck
sealer type of product, but that also didn't last long,
and it did not protect the table at all. Thus, I was very
happy to see the water beading off the top of the table
after applying the Briwax.
Now I see on your website that this product is "not
suitable for exterior use". Could you please tell me why?
The table does sit in direct sun year round on a deck
attached to our home.
Also, when I purchased this product so many years
ago, I was under the impression that it was specifically
for finishing furniture. However, the information
provided in your website appears that Briwax can be used
similar to a furniture polish (on already finished
furniture). Is that correct? Because I have an oak dining
set that has a couple of small areas on the table top
that are very slightly water damaged -- would your
product help to restore those areas? If so, should I use
the "furniture cleaner" first and then the Briwax/Briwax
2000? Thank you, Julie Tyrrell
- Response: No wax wood finish, including Briwax is
suitable for exterior use. There are many wood finishes
in this category, for interior use only.
Wax does not cure or harden in the fashion you are
thinking, like varnish, lacquers or urethanes. Wax is
wax, just like the paraffin's used on top of jelly
containers, they are just a different blend with other
things thrown in - but still wax. Briwax is at its best
when optimally thin, that is also when it is at its'
hardest sheen (burnished). But it is still wax, and
relative to a plastic urethane is soft. You can not get
the soft warm glow luster of wax and the hard impervious
mirror plastic gloss in the same product.
For your picnic table, I would recommend our Teak
Oil. It is designed for what you describe, but will need
reapplication, similar to the other sealers you have
tried.
Yes, the Briwax could be quite suitable for the
enhancement of your oak, but trial is the best way to
start. Waxes can be used directly over bare wood, and
Briwax is often used this way. But a better, more uniform
and durable finish is achieved when used in conjunction
with another sealer, sealed surface, old finish or
finish. Wax is an enhancer, Briwax is excellent at toning
up and bring out the finer points to grain and
color.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Wood Dyes
- Question: Can the above dyes be sprayed on pine,
left to dry and then coated with a polyurethane clear
finish? thanks
- Response: Yes, but any excess dye, or dyestuffs
would need to be wiped off first. Basically, as any other
stain/dye would be used. Larry
|
- Topic: Shellac Sealer
- Question: I have a question about your Shellac
Sanding Sealer. Can this product be used OVER a
penetrating stain (such as Minwax) but UNDER a wipe on
poly finish? I use your waxes as a finish all the time --
they are great. I just recently learned about the Shellac
Sanding Sealer on your web site and don't know much about
it. Thank you for your help. Thom Camacho
- Response:As to being used over a stain or dye,
that should be quite fine, so long as it has cured, such
that the carrying agent (solvent) of the stain will not
try to bleed through.
As to the urethane being used over Shellac, what
would be the point ? What is there to gain ? I would
follow the instructions of the urethane manufacturer.
Shellac Sanding Sealer fills in open grain and
pores of the wood, thus making the next application of
material, wax or other material such as French Polishes,
Varnishes, more even and uniform and seals the other
natural oils in the wood. Some people use the Shellac
Sanding Sealer as a French Polish, by applying several
applications.
Generally, I believe with poly this is done with a
second coat, but following the directions on the can is
best here. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Shellac Sealer
- Question: Thanks very much for your advice.
Regarding the use of varnish or urethane over the sanding
sealer, the point here is for greater protection as I am
considering this for a dining room table I made. I
assumed that varnish/urethane would have greater
resistance to scratches/water than a sanding sealer alone
as a final top coat. My question was simply one of
compatibility. I look forward to seeing the Briwax line
of products (other than wax) in retail stores soon.
Thanks again.
- Response: Given the nature of poly, (plastic) I do
not know what the Sealer would add, unless the poly maker
advised its' use. Poly/Varnish for all practical purpose
is poly, not varnish. None of the more natural finishes
can compare in water and scratch resistance to the
synthetics. As to durability in terms of time and ease of
repair of the patina that would be another question. Poly
will break down. Wax will not. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax on floors and around the
house
- Question: I am remodeling an older home and I have
wood flooring throughout that I want to refinish. I also
have had some cabinets built out of maple. I want to put
a clear finish on both in order to bring out the grain
and natural beauty of the wood. Can I use Briwax as the
primary finish on the cabinets and floors or should I
apply clear varnish first and use Briwax as a secondary
protection? Any information you can provide will be
greatly appreciated.
- Response: Briwax is a hard finishers wax. In the
world of waxes, I believe it to be the best, and when
used properly will provided the hardest wax finish
available in a wax. Your question really is - is a wax
finish suitable for your purposes. Very often wax is fine
in more places than people realize, and will provide a
durable, lasting, wonderful luster that will acquire an
aesthetically pleasing patina over time as it is used.
It also can be a poor finish used in the wrong
place. Your suggestion of Briwax over varnish to produce
a more durable finish is good. Do remember that Briwax
will not evaporate or breakdown from ultraviolet. If not
worn aware or subjected to water, Briwax is most durable.
In the world of finishes, wax is a soft finish, but
Briwax would be a hard wax in the world of wax. Hope this
has been of help. Larry
|
- Topic: Danish Teak Furniture & smoke
odor
- Question:We recently inherited several pieces of
Danish Teak bedroom and dining room furniture. The
furniture is approx. 40 yrs. old and the finish is in
need of rejuvenation. Which of your products would be
best for this? Another question: The furniture was in the
home of a heavy smoker all of its years and has retained
the odor, especially inside the dresser drawers. How can
we eliminate this problem? Thank you. Kevin
Segebarth
- Response: What is on the Danish furniture now for
a finish ? Teak Oil ?
If so, then wipe down with mineral spirits and/or
our Briwax Reviver, followed by mineral spirits, and then
apply Teak Oil.
The smoke odor, I am not sure. Sounds like baking
soda would be appropriate, or washing the surface with
TSP. Try this question at the newsgroup for woodworking,
I am sure you would receive appropriate
responses.
Hope this is of help, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax Gold Oak
- Question: Dear Briwax staff-- I am looking for a
wax with a light oak stain to use to restore an oak
table. The local antiques store restorer said to use very
fine steel wool , then apply denatured alcohol to clean
the surface and then apply this wax. They used a KIWI
light oak (chene clair) paste wax, but I can't find any
of it around here. It seems that one of your products
would do the job of it. Could you please advise me on
this? Thanks,
- Response: I do believe that the Briwax Gold Oak
will do just fine. In actuality, my opinion, is that it
will perform much better. Larry
|
- Topic: White Residue
- Question: I have just tried my first tin of
Briwax. I tried it on a small section of a Queen Anne
style display case I have, and it looked beautiful. I
tried it on a larger hidden section, and it still was
gorgeous. However, when I tried it on one of the legs, I
noticed a white haze-like film after I started buffing
it. I buffed longer and the white haze turned into
streaking which appears to go with the grain of the wood.
This does not appear on the entire leg, just in a couple
of places (the top and the foot). What caused this and
how do I get rid of the streaking? I am reluctant to
apply the wax to the rest of the cabinet until I know how
to prevent this from happening again (or at least what
causes it and how to correct it). Please help me quick!
Linda
- Response: Your problem is excess wax. A common
problem with using Briwax. Wax is not about a coat or
coats, but an optimally applied, singular thin layer. It
is at this point that wax is at its' hardest &
highest luster.
Take a pad of Extra fine steel wool, unroll it to
make an open sheet. Lightly go over the Briwax till the
wool floats over the wax / or there is no drag on the
wool from the wax. The wax at this point should also just
be starting to luster. Switch over to a cotton cloth or
brush or something similar, and burnish the wax.
Click the following link for some other info. :
http://www.briwaxwoodcare.com/problem.htm#A
Tip on Buffing Briwax
Hope this is of help, Larry
|
- Topic: Marble Wax
- Question: What is the composition of Briwax Marble
Wax? Will it also seal marble to some degree?
- Response: I am not sure of the exact composition,
but it is a blend of waxes, including Carnauba,
emulsified by solvents which evaporate off. It is
formulated for use on Marble, thus called Marble Wax. So
the marble would be sealed by wax. If wax is a suitable
sealant for the purpose you wish to seal against, then it
should work quite well. But as stated it is to provide a
sheen for marble. Wax is an excellent sealant (to certain
materials) and debonding agent as well.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Teak Oil for food
preparation
- Question: Could you please inform me as to whether
you can use teak oil on work surfaces that are to be used
for food preparation. If this is not advisable, are you
able to advise on another product please? Thank you, H
Jasper
- Response: Finally, with a little arm twisting I
have an appropriate but negative answer. No our Teak Oil
& Danish Oil is not for use where there is direct
food contact. Occasional contact after a 2 week curing
would be a fine. But the answer is no for food
preparation.
This is not true on all Teak and Danish Oil blends,
so you may want to look for other manufacturers.
Sorry we could not be of more help, Larry
|
- Topic: Dye Removal
- Question: Dear Sirs, After using a water based dye
on new wood, I found the color is not exactly what I
wanted. Can you please tell me how to properly remove the
color from the wood after it has dried. I can not seem to
find this information anywhere. Please help. Thank you
very much.
- Response: By washing the surface with hot water
and then sanding. Aniline dyes are intended by design to
be carried deep into the wood. Water does this well.
Total to partial removal of the dye stuffs will be
dependent on the depth of the dye into the wood and the
depth of your removal process. This will be something you
will need to balance out as to what is acceptable or you
can live with. Also, when washing away the dye, I caution
you about some of the pigments being carried deeper as
well.
It is always important to do a trial sample before
proceeding on anything of this nature to assure
compliance with ones' expectations. You might want to
post your question at the woodworking news group for more
definitive help or even some better and more appropriate
suggestions. It is very good for this sort of thing.
Wish we could be of more help, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax and Toluene
- Question: Dear Sirs, Could you give me some
information please. A friend was telling me that it can
be dangerous to use Briwax as it contains toluene which
is carcinogenic and also can give rise to very bad
headaches. I was very interested and decided to look this
up on the internet. I have found your web site very
helpful and now know that I can find Briwax without
Toluene. We live in an old house which we renovated and
have a lot of stripped pine, e.g. staircase doors and
furniture most of which is finished with Briwax. We have
been here about eight years and during that time I have
been plagued by severe Migraines and have not been able
to specifically identify what the cause is. I do not know
if there could be any connection between this and the
toluene, and I suppose as you are selling it, it might be
a difficult question for you to answer, however I would
be most grateful if you could respond. Perhaps there may
be a good reason for me removing the finish off the
various wood fittings and finishing again with Toluene
free. Please could I have your comments. Juliet
Watkins
- Response: Your friend has misled you with partial
information. All petroleum distillates, to the best of my
knowledge are carcinogens. When was the last time you
watered the garden with mineral spirits, one of the most
mild of solvents and carcinogenic as well. When you pump
your gas, the fumes you are breathing are carcinogenic.
When & if you apply fingernail polish, you are
applying toluene. Read the labeling at the gas pump.
Assuming of course you pump your own gas, we do here, but
I know many places there are still attendants. As to the
Briwax Original containing Toluene, that is true. All
waxes and finishes, require a solvent of some sort. Most
are a petroleum distillate. All waxes that I know of use
a pet. solvent. No pet. solvent is truly friendly,
contrary to all the competitive hype. i.e. petro the
garden. The further misinformation is to think the
solvent is still present. The solvent is present for a
short period of time, very short and very thoroughly for
Toluene. It evaporates off, leaving behind wax. A rather
inert very stable material. It is only when the solvent
has evaporated off entirely that the wax can be finished
off. True of all waxes. Waxes which use an inferior
solvent would be more suspect of the type problem you
pose, because evaporation is inferior to the Toluene.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Buffing Briwax with a brush
- Question: Have recently finished using Briwax on a
conference table with turned and fluted legs. Although I
did not notice you mentioning this in published info, I
applied wax vigorously with paint brush, then used
another clean brush to remove excess. Then used your pine
brush to buff grooves. Worked great. Is there any
downside to this technique? Thanks, will be ordering more
stuff soon. Doug Hebert, Jr.
- Response: No - but I think it demonstrates a
better understanding of using wax, it is not about a nice
thick coat or many coats, but an optimally applied thin
coat. Sounds like a good way to get there. Larry
|
- Topic: Slippery Briwax
- Question: Dear sir/madam, I have just laid a pine
floor out of reclaimed timber, I have tried your rustic
pine finish wax on a sample piece and it appears to be
very slippery to the touch, can you tell me that if I do
a full room will the surface be slippery, or should I be
sealing it with some other product to prevent this? Thank
you for your help.
- Response: We are in the US, so I will forward your
info request on to appropriate people in UK. But from our
experience, Briwax is slippery, but provides a beautiful
wax luster which stands up quite well and enhances the
beauty of wood. But if a non-slippery floor is what you
need then wax would not be a top recommendation by us.
Larry
|
- Topic: Dark Brown on a wood floor
- Question: Larry, Thanks for the information. I
want to use this wax on my existing dark hardwood floors
that are wax sealed not polyurethane sealed. I have
usually used Bruce hardwood floor wax but heard that
Briwax would do a better job. Do you think the dark brown
will work on this? Dolores
- Response: In my opinion, underline opinion, there
would be no noticeable difference between the 2 colors in
this situation.
I would comment that we cannot stress the
importance of using Briwax very sparingly. That
generally, excess is applied. It is almost the nature of
the beast.
So apply in a small area, wipe all excess off
immediately, apply excess to the next small area, repeat
until what ever you are doing has a thin film applied to
it.
Allow the solvent time to evaporate off. 30 minutes
or more. Then buff it up.
If you see any streaking or smudging, don't waste
time trying to buff it off, take a pad of steel wool,
unfold it to an open sheet, buff with it till you see a
luster, switch back to cotton or what ever you are
buffing with.
If you work at it this way it is literally a peach
to work with, and extremely fast to use. Go the route of
applying a nice coat and you will make a lot of extra
work for yourself.
Briwax can be applied with a floor buffer as well.
Use the previous instructions, but where you need to
remove excess during the buffing step, you put on the
course applicator to remove the excess, and then switch
to the buffing pad when you see it start to luster. This
involves pushing down on the handle and sliding the
courser pad underneath. Again, very fast, so long as you
don't waste time buffing when you see a streak or smudge.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: for leather.
- Question: I have several pieces of leather
furniture that need some life put back into. A friend has
used your wax on leather suitcases and the effect was
dramatic. I'm tempted but am concerned that it may wear
off on clothes, etc. Do you have any suggestions or
another product I could consider. FYI, I've used some
creams and polishes designed for leather but have been
disappointed with the end result. Thanks.
- Response: It should be fine for leather. The
problem of getting on to clothes is excess wax. Use it
very sparingly, and buff it off very well. It should work
excellent. More is not better when using wax. Least is
best. Hope this helps, Larry
|
|
|
- Topic: Wood Doors
- Question: Hello....I have a set of 7' Antique
Double Doors which are made out of Mesquite I think. They
are not sealed and have worm holes etc. in them. I don't
want to stain these doors or even polyurethane them. I
just want to protect them and give them a rich luster.
Would this product be something I could use on them and
give me the desired results? thanks...Anena
Johnson
- Response: As long as the doors are on the interior
and not exposed to the elements, I do believe that Briwax
would be the product of choice. It is under these
circumstances that the product excels, & ultimately
provides precisely, the best of any product, what you are
asking for in your email. My only advise would be to use
it sparingly, very sparingly, then buff and burnish it.
If it looks like it needs a second coat do that, do not
use this product in excess if you are trying to achieve a
hard lustrous finish.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax worked great - but one
spot.....and on a child's crib
- Question:Hi! First I love your products. But I am
trying to touch up a wood crib. It had some scratches in
it. So I sanded the scratches that were a little deep and
used the Briwax. Everything worked except, one spot. It
will not take the color. What should I do? Thank Betty
- Response: I do hope you read labels.
If the crib is a child's crib, we do not recommend
use of Briwax here. Also, we would not recommend any wax
or most finishes, for that matter. All waxes for wood
that I am aware of, contain petroleum distillates, and
with the Briwax other dyestuffs etc.
With the Briwax, the distillates do evaporate off,
and wax is left behind, which for all practical and
everyday situation is very safe. But it is not edible. An
edible finish, or finish which is proven and tested to be
completely harmless when ingested is what you should be
using here. These are difficult to find, but is what you
should be doing. Or child safety paints etc.
Of course if the crib is not a "child's" crib or is
for decorative purposes the previous paragraph would not
apply.
And if the previous paragraph does not apply, sand
lightly, through the finish, apply a stain or dye color
with a cotton swab till the color matches closely. Go
from light to dark slowly. Use the Briwax over the area
to blend and tone it closer. You can get it close, but
not so you can't tell.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic:......if I rub hard enough where the wax
comes off.
- Question: I recently painted and Briwaxed a dining
room table. There are spots if I rub hard enough where
the wax comes off. I have 6 chairs to do and want to be
sure it wont come off on anyone's clothes. Can you tell
me what I did wrong and how I can fix it? Your help would
be appreciated! Thank You, Kim Shrader
- Response: I would like to have known more about
your chairs, but am probably safe at surmising what has
happened.
What you describe is a nice coat of wax, applied
amply, then buffed somewhat to create a somewhat ok
luster. Probably looks ok, but not quite right.
But this is not the idea - wax is at its' hardest
highest luster when applied optimally thin, and then
burnished and buffed even thinner.
What you should do is take a pad of extra fine
steel wool (0000), open it to a cloth sheet, and lightly
go over the chairs with that removing any excess wax. The
steel wool should glide smoothly over the finish, and not
drag on any excess wax. You should see the wax turn to a
high luster. Switch to cotton and burnish the wax.
In this state the wax is the most thin and at its'
hardest state. When you run your finger across the wax
surface it should glide, be slippery, absolutely no drag,
if it drags, it is excess wax. Buff with 0000 steel wool,
then burnish with cotton. When used properly, no wax
should be able to work off on any cloth.
This problem can also occur on hard dense finishes,
where it is difficult to use a wax properly. Use Briwax
Liquid Glass.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: glossy finish?
- Question: Will Briwax work if you do not want a
glossy finish? Thank you , C. Reading
- Response: Briwax when properly used provides a
luster. It is really not a gloss. Gloss finishes usually
reflect the light at the surface, more of a mirror shine.
With wax the light is absorbed, refracts and then bounces
out. So the answer is yes it shines, glows, but no it is
not considered a gloss. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Misc. -Excess Wax -& feeding the
finish
- Question: Hello! I have a new "rustic" pine
kitchen table made by El Paso Imports. Too look like an
old Mexico piece - the grain of the wood is very
"open"/coarse/large. They tell me that they use Briwax on
the tables. My family really uses this table - I'm
finding water rings and places where I have to wipe off
(get real--ruuub off) spaghetti sauce, the slightly
colored "finish" ends up lighter.
I LOVE the look the Briwax gives the table. But 5
or 6 times a day -- yes, three meals usually at 4
different times, snacks after school, after soccer
practice, before bedtime...well I need a durable finish.
Don't cringe, but I want to 1) remove the wax finish -
because I think I have to then 2) apply a polyurethane,
lacquer, shellac type produce/finish so the tomato sauce
doesn't stain the wood and I don't get rings from dawn
till midnight. So, please if you can recommend how to
safely remove Briwax. The store says Mineral Spirits is
indicated on your products. Should I use fine steel wool
or something more course to "clean out" the grain in the
wood. Is low odor Mineral Spirits acceptable? Then, what
product would you recommend? Remember I want the very low
sheen, almost matte appearance the table now has. So
lacquer with steel wool between the 2 or so coats????
Would I then apply more of your wax over it???? I am
thinking that I would not, again due to the maintenance.
I also have an old (approx. 90 year old) bombé
armoire in the Louis XIV style. It has beautiful veneer
in cherry or mahogany and many ornate, deeply carved
areas. I had been using Old English Furniture Oil for the
first 5-8 years I owned the piece. Then I started using
Guardsmen Furniture polish for the past 6. The poor
armoire seems to drink in whatever I slather on!!!!!
Makes me wonder if it is not "evaporating" as your
information states. Because I also live in DRY, WARM
Phoenix, it is not aging as gracefully these past few
years as it had the first 80 or so! Should, or maybe I
need to ask HOW do I go about reviving her? I don't want
to refinish (restain...) it, just help out the appearance
of her "old dry wrinkles!" A cleaner?, then a wax? then a
polish? Thank you so much for your time in just reading
my crazy requests. I appreciate it and look forward to
your reply! MJ Pérez
- Response 1: As to your kitchen table, I believe
you have answered all your own questions , and are on the
right track. But your problem sounds a little more like a
problem with excess wax, and the wax not being properly
buffed out. If this was done properly, your problems with
the finish would be much less, but there would be a
corresponding change in the color because the wax would
be much thinner, but harder as well.
As to your armoire, the whole idea of feeding the
finish etc., is not sound thinking or knowledge. It
sounds to me that a proper wax polish here might be a
better solution.
- Response 2: Cont'd ----- dry >wrinkles!" >A
cleaner?, then a wax? then a polish?
NO NO, Pick a decent wax or polish. Stick with the
one only. Forget the cleaning, there is no finish that
needs to be constantly cleaned. Don't use Murphy Oil Soap
(Maybe if you left it in a barn for 100 years - then we
all would be happy to clean it up for you, it would be a
real treat and a great find) In our products, think in
terms of the Briwax Lt. Brown, Sheradale Antique Brown or
Briwax Liquid Glass. If the finish is in excellent
condition, no perkiness in terms of color tone or
restorative qualities needed go with the Liquid Glass or
Sheradale. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Marks in the finish
- Question: 1. I HAVE A DINING ROOM TABLE THAT HAS
MARKS ON IT IN THE SHAPE OF MY PLACE MATS. I WAS TOLD,
THAT BECAUSE I USED A SPRAY WAX ON MY TABLE AND DIDN'T
ALLOW IT TO DRY COMPLETELY BEFORE PUTTING THE PLACE MATS
ON, MY TABLE IS PERMANENTLY DISCOLORED AND I HAVE TO HAVE
IT REFINISHED. I WAS WONDERING IF YOUR PRODUCT WOULD TAKE
AWAY FIX THIS PROBLEM
2. I ALSO HAVE SOME DISCOLORATION ON MY BEDROOM
CHEST NOT IN DISTINCT SHAPES LIKE MY DINING ROOM TABLE
...IT LOOKS LIKE WATER WAS USED ON IT, BUT NO WATER HAS
BEEN USED. THIS PIECE OF FURNITURE IS ONLY ABOUT 8 YRS
OLD. CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT TO DO? I THINK MY CLEANING CREW
MAY HAVE USED "END DUST" ON IT. YOUR IMMEDIATE REPLY WILL
BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU. M.
SCHEFFLER
- Response: These problems are always hard to
resolve without seeing them. Most actually can only be
partly resolved any ways. I would use Briwax Reviver,
followed by Briwax Liquid Glass for both situations.
Sheradale Antique Brown or Briwax of a dark color might
help to disguise what is left.
This will do some good for sure, and may do a 75 %
plus performance, which is very high for fix ups of what
you describe. The Liquid Glass has performed some near
100 % finish fix ups for me. As to why and for which type
of mark compared to another, I am still trying to figure
out the differences in performance myself. There seems to
be no real explanation. What is nice about our product is
what you see is what you get. Unlike other products which
evaporate off in a few days. I have found these products
in my opinion, to be exceptional. I hate to remove or
alter a finish too much, for fear of losing value in
better pieces of furniture. Wish I could be of more help.
Larry
|
- Topic: .. dark cherry finish
- Question: We have just put Watco 'Cherry' on 6
dining room chairs, no finish coats darkening using your
products for the finish coat? Also have 2 antique end
tables made of cherry to finish. Have not started on them
yet. What of your products can we use to get the darker
cherry finish? Willing to use elbow grease in order to
get the smooth, rich finish. Thanks for the info. Dale
Stillman
- Response: My suggestion is to read up on wax,
urethane, varnish, lacquer etc. and know something more
about stains and the product you are using on cherry, a
difficult wood to finish properly, but well worth the
effort. We sell a book by Bruce Johnson called the Week
End Refinisher (it can be found elsewhere as well) and
reading your question I would highly recommend it and you
would most certainly end up picking the correct methods
for what you are trying to do and accomplish in the end.
Otherwise we are both just groping around in the dark. It
is 12.00 plus 3.50 shipping. I wish I could be of more
help here, but am certain if you read up on these areas a
little you will end up being much more satisfied with
your finished work. Your questions would also maybe not
be so vague. Sorry I can not be of more help, but I don't
want to give you bad advice either. Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax over urethane floor
finish
- Question: I would like to know if Briwax can be
used on hardwood floors with a urethane finish. Also do
you have a product for routine cleaning of the same.
thanks ,Terry
- Response: If the floors have been newly refinished
or are fairly new, it will probably not work with the
success you are looking for. If you are looking to tone
the urethane gloss down and want to use a maintenance wax
on the urethane, then the Briwax may serve your purposes
ok to excellent. If they are fairly new, you should be
following the instructions from the manufacturer of the
urethane or use a polish made for urethane. Waxes are not
usually the recommendation of choice for urethane, as I
understand things.
If the floors are old and you are looking for a
product to restore them, or has a restorative quality to
it, then the Briwax will probably work exceptionally
well.
The real problem here is, are you looking for the
qualities of urethane or the qualities of a wax. They are
2 different worlds apart. People who swear by urethane
put down wax, & people who love wax usually put down
urethane.
What are you looking for ? Your question, like so
many people, alludes to wanting the best of both worlds,
and in this case, it really doesn't work.
What ever you do, be sure to do a test before
proceeding ahead. To test the Briwax for your purpose is
the cost of a 1 pound tin. Quite inexpensive to see if
wax will be a benefit to you and serve your purpose. Hope
I have been of some help, Larry
|
- Topic: Heywood Wakefield Blond
Finish
- Question: Hello, I have just purchased a 1950's
Heywood Wakefield set of furniture. It is clear maple
finish . It has numerous scratches from 50 yrs of use .
Which product would be best to touchup and maintain the
finish. I believe the finish is clear lacquer. I would
appreciate any help on this matter. Thanks Tom.
- Response: I don't believe Briwax will be very
helpful. The Briwax Reviver will do some helpful things,
then utilize Briwax Liquid Glass. Choose from a couple of
the Briwax Sticks colors to disguise some of the
scratches. This will do a lot to improve and pick up the
finish. Heywood Wakefield (blond, Champagne Finish, I
assume we are talking about) is really tough to fix up.
Beyond what I have recommended, I believe the only other
thing is strip & refinish. Also, these products are
the best at fixing up such a finish, in my opinion of
course. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax on oak veneer
- Question: We have recently covered half our house
with oak veneer which we then treated with Briwax. When
we ran out before we had finished we substituted Minwax.
Are we sorry? Of course, thus I am ordering more of your
delightful product. Louise Tolman
- Response: Just saw you note. You are very right,
there is no comparison.
Even people who think they know waxes often really
don't understand the difference.
There are 2 other other parts to the equation as
well. Briwax when used properly will give you 2 to 4
times the coverage in area. And the other part is in the
world of waxes, (which relative to finishes like poly,
waxes are still soft), Briwax is a very hard wax. In my
opinion the hardest. So much so that it really does
qualify as an appropriate finish, but not for all areas
or items.
For overall durability it is tough to answer
because wax, although softer than poly and less resistant
to water & abrasion etc., will out last nearly all
man made materials and when gets damaged can be so easily
repaired. It is very forgiving in this respect. When
damage occurs to the finish, and is re-waxed, it acquires
a nice pleasing aesthetic quality, patina. Sunlight does
not break down wax. So in the long run, I think the
turtle wins (~) Thank you. Larry
|
- Topic: High Gloss table top
- Question: I will be using this product on my
High-Gloss Cherry
- Response: The Sheradale will work well, but for
the table top it is a wax and may not buff out the way
you expect. If you are familiar with using a wax or the
table is finished in wax, and/or you know a wax will work
for the "dense, large, open, flat surface, then Sheradale
will work exceptionally well. Waxes don't always work
well in these situations. You may want to consider adding
Briwax Liquid Glass. It is the product for this type
situation. Use the Sheradale on the sides & legs. Use
the Liquid Glass on the open flat. Both products are
quick & easy to use for and around the home. If you
want to add the Liquid Glass you can email back or
reorder at Briwax OnLine
|
- Topic: Exterior use, buffet cabinet,
entertainment center - all cypress
- Question: A friend formerly employed in a cabinet
shop suggested that Briwax has a product that might be
good for a particular application. I am expecting
delivery next month on a front door unit, a buffet
cabinet, and an entertainment center for a new house, all
unfinished and made from old, recycled cypress. I would
like to stay fairly close to the natural color with
perhaps just a bit of darkening in the finishing process.
The exterior of the door unit will have to be
weatherproof (south Louisiana), but it won't be exposed
to much direct sun. My friend said that the crew in the
cabinet shop had great success applying the Briwax to old
cypress to enhance the grain and then adding a
polyurethane finish. In reading the descriptions of your
products I am skeptical about trying to apply poly to
wood that already has a wax finish. What do you advise?
- Response: Briwax does have all the aesthetic
qualities you are looking for, and in the world of waxes
is, in my opinion the hardest of finishers waxes.
But, it is still a wood wax. None are made for
exterior exposure or to serve as a barrier to the
weather.
Also, waxes are always the last thing to be applied
and are often used in industry to serve as a bond barrier
and release agent. In no circumstances should poly be put
over a wax. In fact, it could not have worked in this
order in my opinion.
Briwax can work with some degree of success over
poly, but in my opinion why would you want to do this. If
you need poly, use it as intended.
Briwax as a finish over what you describe for
furniture probably will work and look wonderful. - But
test & trial always. Actually this is a good rule
when it comes to finishes of all items. Then what you see
should be what you get.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Kitchen Table Top -
Mesquite
- Question: I have an mesquite wood table with a
stained finish in it. I want to protect this table from
water stains and food spills, since we will be using this
table on a daily basis. I want to avoid polyurethane.
I've used tung oil and a paste wax on it up to this
point. I wondering if your Briwax will provide me the
protection I am looking for. If you have any other
suggestions please let me know. Thanks in advance for
your help. Ron D'Ascenzo
- Response: Briwax is basically a very hard
finishers wax. When burnished properly, there is no real
comparison to waxes which use mineral spirits as a
solvent i.e. Butchers wax, Johnson, Minwax etc.
If you are having reasonable success with a paste
wax, then your results should be quite satisfactory with
Briwax.
But no waxes are really intended to stand up to
"water stains and food spills, since we will be
using this table on a daily basis".
Wax will still be a maintenance thing. I use it on
my kitchen table and like it. The table makes the kitchen
look nice, particularly with the wax finish. Where you
sit to eat, needs to be waxed once per month, but it
often goes several. Where the table receives no wear and
tear, there is no need to wax.
What most people don't understand about wax is it
is about protecting the finish or patina below. Wax
generally will trap or hold damage such that it does not
harm the finish or patina below. Yes it can be used as
finish by it self, but it is the combination i.e. used
over stains, sealers etc. where it excels.
Another quality is damage or patina that a piece of
furniture acquires over time becomes aesthetically
pleasing when waxed out,and re-waxed, etc. etc. over
years and time, it acquires charm with wear & tear.
Not so with the plastic based finishes, varnishes etc. I
have had great success as well with reviving old finishes
that were waxed, looked totally gone, rewax them, and
they are as wonderful as the day they were put away in
the barn. Wax is a most stable material.
So if it is impervious durability use poly or
something similar, and quite frankly most people and the
furniture they have is best with poly. But when damaged
be prepared for a refinish. Not so with wax.
If you have a nice piece of furniture, which it
sounds like this might be, then it probably will become
very nice waxed out & used over time and maintained
with wax. The amount of maintenance will be relative to
the amount of use the finish receives. A bureau in a
bedroom, may not need to be re-waxed to regain luster but
every few years. Wax does not evaporate or breakdown
even, in direct sunlight.
But you really can't have the best of both worlds
in this case. Briwax,although in the world of waxes, in
my opinion is the absolute best, is still wax. Hope this
helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Danish Oil - drying off
- Question: Does a Danish oil finish actually "dry"
out over a period of time so that it has to be reapplied
every so long? I have just made a deacon's bench out of
oak and I like the idea of using Danish on it because
there is minimal work, but I am giving this as a gift and
don't want it to look lifeless in a couple of years.
- Response: Danish Oil is a polymerizing oil,
therefore it dries, cures and hardens. So what you see
should be what you get. Temperature extremes will have an
effect, as well as wear & tear. It will need to be
re-oiled dependent on the amount of wear & tear,
unless of course you place it where it is not used,
maintain a constant temperature, then you should not have
any problem. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Steinway Upright Piano
- Question: Briwax, I have a 15 year old ebony
finish Steinway Upright Piano. It is not the high gloss
type black, just a plain black finish. For years our cat
has been sneezing on the finish and I don't know what to
use to clean it. Is your Briwax original formula safe for
painted wood? I tried your liquid cleaner and it seemed
to soften the paint. It works fine on the dining room set
though. Perhaps Briwax 2000 is safe for paint, though I
need the strongest cleaner that won't take off or soften
the finish. In case your wondering, I heard about your
product on a handyman radio program. I will look forward
to your reply. Thank you. Regards, Salvatore A. Sobkowski
- Response: I am not sure what to advise. The Briwax
should always be tested or tried out, but this
information is true of all products of this nature. As to
softening paint, I know of know paints, cured, which
should be a problem. It is used a great deal over many
type paints for the effect it produces. But is you black
piano finish paint ? Briwax has a solvent, as all waxes
do, which evaporates off - rather quickly, but you know
this. If the solvent in the Briwax is softening the
finish, it may not be paint. The Briwax 2000 still uses a
strong solvent, low odor, xylene. All waxes use a solvent
of some type.
We have a product called Liquid Glass which sounds
like the product you should be using. It will not change
the finish, just enhance what is there. And it is a
cleaner and general purpose polish. It truly is a super
product.
Although Briwax will clean, it is primarily a hard
finishers wax. So your final purpose with Briwax should
always be a final buffed & burnished wax luster.
Briwax does have some restorative qualities as well in
its' ability to disguise markings and present patina in
an aesthetically pleasing way. Wish I could be of more
help. Larry
|
- Topic: Furniture in a dry house
- Question: Our house current has less than 30%
humidity and temperatures in the upper 70's. While we are
not uncomfortable our furniture is drying out. We've only
lived here for a year and already I've noticed a
difference. Many of the pieces are over 30 years old. I'm
also worried about the newer pieces purchased last year.
What can we do to restore and prevent further damage?
Family members have respiratory problems so caustic
products or those with strong odors need to be avoided.
Thank you for your help. Mark Liberson
- Response: You have touched on an area where this
is a lot of misinformation & hype, especially when it
comes to marketing various products for furniture.
First of all, if your furniture is drying out over
a length of time, not seasonal changes, there really is
not much that can be done, and none of the "finish
feeder" products can stop this and actually contribute to
the problem.
The problem for the most part is furniture made
from woods which have not been fully seasoned. This is
expensive to do and how many people really check in to
this when buying furniture. But there really is nothing
that can be done.
Wax will help with the seasonal fluctuation of
humidity and the other solution, such as what museums do
is control the humidity. The wood in your furniture will
eventually achieve the same humidity as the environment.
this is natural, and just the way it is. You can not
moisturize wood with "oil", contrary to advertising hype.
Wax will slow down the seasonal changes such as the
dryness of winter to the higher humidifies of summer. and
vice-versa.
As to the caustic nature of finish materials, I am
not sure what to say. All these products have some sort
of solvents. As for our wax, Briwax, the solvent is
strong but present only for a short time. Then you are
left with just wax. The solvent very rapidly evaporates
off and then you are left with just wax. A very stable
& inert material. For the most part harmless. This is
basically true of all the products, so as to moving
entirely away from solvents when using Briwax products,
it can not be done.
Caustic, to my understanding, is to describe acid
(base) reactions. Solvents do not act like acids/bases.
You will have to judge the overall caustic nature
and effect on your particular environment yourself. I can
supply you some info. If there is a problem in any way,
you should not use them. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Refinishing new walls
- Question: I refinished my basement, with 8" pine
planks I would like to know what I can use to protect the
wood. I can't use anything thing that has a heavy smell.
I will have to use something that is odorless. This is
new wood. I was wondering if a wax would leave a clear
finish and not darken the wood. I would like to keep it
as bright as possible. Thank you, Kenneth
Hookenson
- Response: Wax is nearly odorless after it is
applied. But all waxes have solvents to keep the wax in
paste form for application. With Briwax the solvent
evaporates off in less than 30 minutes after being
applied. Clear Briwax over our Shellac Sanding Sealer
would provide a nice finish, but I would suggest making a
sample for yourself before proceeding. Both products
while in use will leave a heavy smell till the solvents
have evaporated off & been ventilated. Hope this has
been of help. Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax on Acrylic
- Question: Can the Briwax be used over acrylic
paint? I plan to distress the piece and want to further
age it with the Briwax, darkening the paint and staining
the areas where I sand off the paint. Will this work with
the Briwax? Thanks, Lorna
- Response: Yes you should have good success with
this. The wax is very stable, watch & test that the
solvent in the wax does not effect the paint. This
problem, if there should be one, will be immediate as the
solvent evaporates off in just a few minutes for Briwax.
Then you have just wax.
I would caution you to experiment a little before
trying it on your final piece. Wax, unlike paints or
urethanes or finishes which harden through a chemical
reaction, will not build to a coat or coats of thickness
if one is trying to achieve luster. So where you try to
build the wax in the edges or cracks to build grunge, or
to build a coat of thickness with the wax to effect a
darker tone, the wax will be sticky and may not be
acceptable, although in the cracks and inside corners it
usually is ok sticky. Wax is at its' hardest &
highest luster when it is at its' optimal thinness.
Unfortunately, this is when the wax has its' mildest
effect for tone of color.
Generally, try to achieve the color and antiquating
effects you desire first, then utilize the wax accentuate
them, by providing luster & depth to the existing
color & effects. When the underlying effect is what
you want, & then Briwax is used to provide luster and
protection & tone depth, the effect is exceptional.
When you rely a lot on the wax to provide these
antiquating qualities and effects, you miss the point of
the use of a high quality wax, and ultimately wind up
using the wax in a wrong way. It still usually works out,
but not with optimum success.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Maintaining a Table Top
- Question 1: To Whom it may concern: WE recently
purchased a table for our kitchen. The finish is lovely
and we would like to keep it that way. Which product
would you suggest using to maintain a finish of a table
that gets lots of use by a family of five and gets wiped
after every meal. Thanks Carol Wessel
- Response 1: What is on it for a finish now ?
Larry
- Question 2: Dear Larry, We aren't sure what is on
it now. It doesn't appear to be a shellac type finish. It
has a sheen but isn't really shiny and frankly doesn't
appear to be very durable. I am wondering if some sort of
shellac or polyurethane would help maintain the finish or
if we should just use wax. Can you help? Thanks Carol
Wessel
- Response 2: I think your best bet would be to buy
the book I have for sale called the Weekend Refinisher by
Bruce Johnson. First of all you need to know what is on
it for a finish to somewhat answer your question. What
finish are we trying to maintain or improve ? These type
questions are very well explained out in this book.
When you throw out the word durable, what kind of
durability are you looking for ?
I use Briwax on my kitchen table & love it. But
it requires maintenance & reapplication. The table is
getting beat up and with every rewaxing improves in
appearance.
If you wish to put down a finish that improves with
age, shellac & wax are great. Danish Oil or Teak Oil
& wax are great too.
For durability, polyurethane may be your better
choice, but it does not improve with time & abuse
(patina). The look is usually not considered very good.
And when damage does occur, which it will, you are faced
with a refinish job for the whole table.
To be quite frank, it is not possible in this case
of table tops to have the best of both worlds, unless you
go with a natural and pleasing finish, and then cover it
with a sheet of glass.
Given what I know of the finish you have, I would
recommend using Briwax Liquid Glass for now. Do some
research and a little experimenting, and then make a
choice which will suit you needs. Hope this helps,
Larry
|
- Topic: Problems on an old roll top
desk
- Question: I recently purchased an old 1920's oak
wood roll top desk. I cleaned the wood per the antique
store owners specs..using a fine steel wool and an oily
hand cleaner stuff. I then applied a wax with cherry
stain with a brush about a week later. My neighbor
supplied me with the was, as he refinishes for a
profession. I am not sure what brand the wax was, but I
was supposed to brush on, leave on for a while and rub to
a shine with a cloth. Two weeks later, I am still
rubbing, and the stain wax is still coming off on
everything. I do not want to get any more advice from my
neighbor and want to know how to fix it and with what
products. The reason I used the stain wax, was to
maintain as much of the orig. form of the desk. This
seems abnormal to me, I can put a letter on the desk and
an hour later, it has soaked up some of the stain. Is it
because the wood is too hard and it isn't accepting the
treatment. Please help and advise me what to buy or do
next! I hate to think I have ruined my dear desk! Thanks
- Response: "I then applied a wax with cherry stain
with a brush about a week later." -- Never apply wax with
a brush. (Like a paint on coat, brushed in - brushed off
is ok) "but I was supposed to brush on, leave on for a
while and rub to a shine with a cloth. " -- This is the
general idea. "The reason I used the stain wax, was to
maintain as much of the orig. form of the desk" - Briwax
when used properly will maintain, enhance & protect
an existing finish better than about any polish.
Wax is intended to be applied for one single
optimally applied thin film. Wax will only come to a
luster and be at its' hardest when it is optimally thin.
So to achieve this, particularly with Briwax since the
solvent in the wax evaporates off so quickly, one must
sort of get the wax on amply in a small area, 8x8" area
say, and then immediately wipe it all all all off. Take
this excess you wipe off, work in the next small area,
wipe it all off. When the solvent evaporates off, which
varies with different waxes, you are ready to buff off.
The process off buffing the wax is really
burnishing it down even thinner.
What you have is a case of extreme wax. This excess
must be removed, cut down, before the wax will achieve a
luster or any amount of hardness. Wax relative to other
finishes will still be soft, but not like you
describe.
What you need to do is take a pad of steel wool,
extra fine, "0000", unroll it to a flat cloth sheet and
begin buffing your wax with that. The wool cloth will
like drag on the excess wax. Keep buffing it down with
the steel wool, till literally the wool cloth glides over
the surface with out hanging or dragging. You may go
through several pads, cloth sheets. The wax should turn
to a luster, and there should be no evidence of streaking
wax at all. If there is streaking go over these with the
wool cloth till they are removed. Switch to a cotton
cloth or have a cotton cloth in the other hand and
burnish the wax with this. Cotton will create a little
bit of friction (heat), which will help to set the wax
and bring it up a notch or 2 on the hardness scale. This
is fast and easy to do, but the problem is understanding
that least is best, and the idea is to get the wax
optimally thin. One single optimally applied thin coat. A
second coat may make the wax seem to look better, but it
is not because it has added another layer, it has made
the first coat more uniform & even. People who do
several coats of wax, wind up taking the 4th & 5th
etc. all off, if they are trying to achieve a hard wax
luster. They are working for nothing.
Wax still will be soft relative to other finishes,
but this should improve its' endurance & the problem
you describe considerably.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Pulling the carpet up & shining the
old floor
- Question: Hi, I am removing wall-to-wall carpeting
from my hardwood floors. It looks like they have never
been finished. It appears the bedrooms which did not have
carpeting were done and the main floor was left bare. I
want to finish them in a very natural way but must have
some protection from dog and children traffic. Is Briwax
a suitable finish over just bare floors? My other
alternative is a polyurethane. How often would I need to
re-polish the floors with Briwax? What do you recommend?
Joan
- Response: "I want to finish them in a very
natural way but must have some protection from dog and
children traffic"
Briwax should be quite suitable for this. Be sure
to buff & burnish it down quite well. When burnished
down properly it is quite durable. Like all waxes, it
will wear away by foot traffic, mostly from the soles of
shoes. Socks of course will only keep the wax highly
polished.
Is Briwax a suitable finish over just bare
floors?
Briwax can be used as the only finish, but a
superior product is achieved when used in combination
with a polymerizing oil, such as Danish Oil. Or over our
Briwax Shellac Sanding Sealer. Wax requires maintenance
based on wear. No shoe traffic, no wear. I used Briwax a
couple years ago on a living room floor in an apartment I
own. Two years later it still does not need any
re-waxing.
What do you recommend?
I recommend that you develop an understanding of
the difference between polyurethane & wax. They are
worlds apart. If you like poly, wax is a useless inferior
product. If you like wax, and the beauty that wax is
about, poly is an extension of the world of plastic and
something we need to limit. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Saving a label on an old ice
box
- Question: I have an icebox that requires
refinishing/restoring. The item has a label/decal under
and undesirable finish. I want to salvage the label/decal
but yet restore the piece. Do you have a product that
will permit this to be done and at the same time preserve
the label/decal? bohm113@aolcom
- Response: No. This is a question that you might
have better success by posting on one of the wood working
newsgroups. Good luck. Larry
|
- Topic: Do I use Briwax On My Floors or Not
?
- Question: Hi there - I am not sure where to go for
guidance on this, so I thought maybe you could provide
some advice. If this is not what you do I understand, but
here it goes. I have an older house with wood floors from
the '40s that need to be refinished. I had planned to
strip them and polyurethane them, but now would like to
consider stripping them and using Briwax to refinish
them. They definitely need to be stripped bare as they
have been neglected for years.
So, is refinishing them with Briwax realistic?
Is it too hot in Florida for the Briwax to hold up?
Will it cost me an arm and a leg (the two rooms
total about 600 sq. feet)?
Will they hold up, or will I spend every weekend on
my hands and knees adding Briwax?
If it is a good idea, do I just strip the floors
and them work in multiple applications of Briwax?
Again, any guidance you can provide is greatly
appreciated, even if it only directing me to another
resource. Thanks in advance for your help. Erika
Amble
- Response: What you need to determine is whether
you want a wax finish for your floors or a poly (or
similar) finish for your floors. Briwax is a high
quality, very hard, wood finishers wax. Reading a little
between the lines of what you have to say, it sounds more
like you need a poly finish. Although, you like the
qualities of a Briwax finish and really want that, you
are not willing to accept what a wax finish is all about.
..."like to consider stripping them and using
Briwax to refinish them" - Briwax does not
"refinish". It provides a wax coat over what ever it is
applied to. The nature of the wax is such that it
enhances the the grain, accentuates the color tones of
the wood and provides a wonderful luster. Inner warm
glow. Qualities which when compared to poly are lacking
in the plastic finish.
..."Is it too hot in Florida for the Briwax to
hold up? " - If wax is not properly buffed down it
will be sticky. this should not be a problem, but it has
more to do with proper application and burnishing of the
wax.
...If it is a good idea, do I just strip the
floors and them work in multiple applications of Briwax?
- It might be a good idea, especially if it were my
house. I like wax and don't mind the maintenance required
by its' use. Whether you strip the floors or not is up to
you. Briwax will work on an old floor the same way it
works on new wood. Enhancing what is there. It actually
might be a good idea in your case to try it on the old
finish first for a while and see if it will be
satisfactory to you.
As to multiple coats, that may not be a bad idea,
but the misnomer of your statement lies in that you are
still going to have only one optimally applied thin coat
when you are finished, if properly applied to achieve
hardness & luster. So eventually you will realize
after the 3 or 4 or 5 coat, 1 coat is all that is needed
if properly applied. Sometimes a second improves the
first, by making it more uniform. From then on, you are
doing it for the exercise.
..."Will they hold up, or will I spend every
weekend on my hands and knees adding Briwax?" - I
have an apartment which is becoming vacant. I used Briwax
on the bedroom, living room & den area. the floors
are quite stained, discolored hardwood floors. The wax
has been there 2 years. I just inspected the apartment.
The floors still look great from the original wax. I am
going to get a rental buffer & just rebuff what is
there. These terrible looking floors, after being Briwax
were quite acceptable and had a nice quality all their
own. My tenant was neat and left the shoes at the door.
I used poly at the entries. Actually, this time
around, I am going to take the hardwood out or cover it
with tile or carpet at the entry. If you want to try
hardwood & wax at an entry, go for it.
But, I suggest you try the Briwax first, if even on
a small section of floor for a while. You may be more
partial to several coats of a good floor finish, which
will build, to quite a thickness, if you so desire, and
provide the impervious and durable finish you are looking
for. I am a very scared individual, and I don't mind
seeing a little of that in my environment. Wax,
especially Briwax, enhances that scared beauty like no
other product. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Durability
- Question: Looking specifically for a finish for
antiques, and reproduction that are durable. I own and
run a woodworking shop specializing in antiques: repairs,
refurbishing, reproductions. Wayne Scholl Owner Scholl
Woodworking
- Response: If durable should mean resistance to
water, abuse etc., then wax is not a good choice. My
suggestion would be to try Briwax, even if it is on a
piece of scrap wood. You will quickly see if it will be
what you want. I also assume your question is to Briwax
Wax, & not varnishes, Teak Oil etc. If durable means
time that it will last, then wax far out excels all
finishes. Without more info, you question is hard to
answer. Also, would appreciate knowing more of whom the
question is coming from. Name and address is nice.
Responding to an email address and a general question is
difficult. Are you even on this continent, if you
understand where I am coming from. Hope I have been of
some help. Larry
|
- Topic: Briwax on Chairs
- Question: Hi! I would like to use Bri Wax on some
chairs but am concerned that it will wear off on our
clothes?? What is your advice on this? Thanks Jen
- Response: Without question this is a problem for
many people, but it has more to do with the finishing of
the wax. Most people put to much Briwax on, then do not
buff & burnish the excess off - the excess is what
becomes sticky & will come off on clothing.
Generally, when burnished properly this will not be a
problem. I would recommend applying the wax as usual,
amply in small area, immediately wipe it all off - all
off with what you are applying it with. Do your whole
chair this way, leaving behind a very thin, but
thoroughly applied film. Thin thin thin. Let solvent
evaporate off for 15 minutes or 2 weeks, it doesn't
matter.
Here is the important part - take a pad of steel
wool, open it up to make an open cloth. Begin buffing
with it. You will see the wax begin to luster. Move on.
Do this to the entire piece. The steel wool cloth should
glide over the surface - literally. If it hangs at all,
it is excess wax. Buff with the steel wool, lightly till
the excess is removed and it starts to luster every
where. Quickly go over the entire chair in this way,
& remove any excess wax with the steel wool. This is
very fast to do. Then burnish with cotton or power
buffer. This is very quick to do as well especially when
the excess wax has been removed. Cotton will create
friction which will help to set the wax up a notch or 2
in terms of hardness & luster.
It is an optimally applied thin coat you are trying
to achieve - not a coat. When you go at it this way,
there is no wax easier, faster or will provide the hard
luster that Briwax will provide. I use it on old beat up
mission chairs and other old beat up things with great
aesthetic success, and some profit as well. There is no
problem with the wax coming off. But there are those who
do not know how to use it, and have a problem. Wax is a
case of where more is not better. Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Colors on Briwax
- Question: Hi...would like to know more about
BriWax. Noticing that it comes in different colors stumps
me, as I would like to use it on a waterfall deco walnut
with inlays of different woods. What color would I use or
do you have a sample grouping of various colors and
literature discussing how to choose????? ..... Please
send me information and pricing by email or snail mail
at: Jan Fosher
- Response: I believe Lt. Brown will be what you
want. You may want Tudor, or Dk if there is a lot of
scratches to disguise. Color is not so important has it
does not stain but tones and deepens the existing grain
& color. If it is in rough shape use Dk, if not use
Lt. Br. Briwax will work with a reasonable amount of
success at restoring these type pieces. If the finish is
in good shape, then of course it will work well. Do a
test in inconspicuous area to be sure the solvent will
not dissolve or harm the finish. It should not be a
problem - I have used my self on these sets. I would
recommend starting with the Briwax Reviver.
Since these are hard dense finishes, the problem
will be getting the wax to lay thin & flat. NO - I
repeat No, excess wax. One ultimately applied thin coat
is what you want - not a coat or coats or build up. If
you feel another coat is required do another thin coat.
When applying use steel wool (0000), work small area with
ample amount, then immedialty wipe it all off. Use the
same steel - other end, not particularly important, just
get it as thin as possible. Take what you wiped off to
your next small area. 2) Go to next small area - repeat.
3) do the entire piece. 4) Let set a short time or long
time, but till solvent evaporates off, which with Briwax
is quick and thorough. 5) Begin the buff/burnish step by
using steel wool (0000). Unfold pad to form a sheet.
Lightly go over the wax, buffing lightly, lightly !.
Handle the wool with very light pressure. Where the wool
drags a little, it is excess wax. Buff there a little
with the wool. When the steel wool glides/floats over the
surface then burnish with cotton cloth or Pine Brush. I
have steel wool sheet in one hand & old tee shirt in
the other. Don't over do it with the steel wool or you
will remove the wax entirely. If you do, no big deal, put
some more on in that area. This is the real beauty of
working with wax, it is so forgiving.
Another, route would be use the Briwax Reviver,
then Liquid Glass, then Sheradale Antique Brown. The
Briwax will provide a more durable wax finish, since it
is a very hard finishers wax. You may want to substitute
the Sheradale for Briwax.
Hope this helps.
|
- Topic: Liquefying the Briwax to apply on wood
paneling
- Question: Hello, I have just finished wood
pinewood paneling my hall and have started to treat the
timber with your product. I have warmed the wax to a
liquid and applied it with a clean soft bristled paint
brush. This appears to soak well into the wood and once
dry, buffs to a high finish. Can you give your views on
this type of application, is reducing the wax to a hot
liquid detrimental in any way ?. Chris
- Response: First of all, you are not liquefying
wax, but a blend of waxes & an extremely flammable
solvent. Be careful !!!!!!
Many people do liquefy the wax blend before use,
often by just setting in the sun, in fact it liquefies
very easily. this has nothing to do with the wax, nor
does it reflect on the hardness of the finished wax
surface. It is the strong solvent which allows this to
happen, not the wax. The solvent allows the wax to
emulsify, thus giving you the opportunity to apply.
Therefore harder waxes can be used in the blend
makeup.
Secondly, the stronger solvent then evaporates off
very quickly, thus allowing you the opportunity to buff
out the wax, which will not happen well until the solvent
has evaporated off. A common problem with lesser grade
blends.
Wood does not absorb wax, but obviously some of the
solvent and dye pigment is carried deeper into the wood
if the liquid blend is applied as you have
described.
Your method should work fine, except that you are
probably using 2-3 times as much product as needed. Try
applying the way you describe, using less product and you
may find that buffing and burnishing is easier to do, and
a higher luster may be achieved. Wax comes to a luster,
and a harder luster, at optimum thinnnnnnness, not coat
or coats, or build up of coats. This product when applied
liquid is very deceiving, it always looks like none is
there, and it is never the case.
Hope this helps, Larry
|
- Topic: Danish Oil for food prep surfaces
- Question: Dear Sir/Madam, I have purchased and
used some of your Briwax Danish oil, and I am very
impressed with the results, Is it possible / safe, to use
Danish oil on food preparation areas?. Any help would be
greatly appreciated. Regards, Harley Whittington
- Response: From the manufacturer: Hi Larry, I
haven't sent you a copy of the reply, because we will
simply be referring this inquiry back to the local
distributor in New Zealand to follow up on. As we would
you. But to answer your question, there are no major
contaminants in Danish Oil that would affect food contact
with the exception of the dryers, which in common with
all domestic paints, contain small amounts of heavy
metals. Zirconium, Cobalt, Lead. They are present in
small amounts only, but nevertheless they are there. The
only way to ensure that it is safe would be to conduct a
test on a batch to food contact regulations. This would
be possible, the downside is that you would have to test
every batch you made. As this is made in a normal
production area, cross contamination is a problem, and so
there would be no grunge that every batch complied. In
any case I think that these elements would make it a
marginal pass, if it did. In summary, I don't think that
we should be recommending Danish Oil to be used on bowls,
plates, serving utensils, but it might be OK on a work
surface or table where occasional contact is feasible. I
hope this helps. Alistair of HFI
|
|
|
- Topic:
Linseed Oil Turns Black over
time
- Question: Are the products for polishing based on
various Linseed emulsions and solutions ok for a fine
finish?
- Response: Here is what some others have to say:
- "Over time linseed oil completely
deteriorates causing the finish to breakdown.
Additionally, linseed oil's drying and curing
time is very long. The increased dry and cure
time allows moisture to remain between coats
which eventually permits competing products to
crack and peel and stops protecting the wood
surface. Linseed oil has no waterproofing
properties. Finally, over time, linseed oil
turns a wood finish very dark, almost black."
(http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/marine.htm)
- "Linseed oil turns black on exposure to
UV light, so its use on sun decks and patios may
be a poor choice. Oils are also prone to buildup
of soot from air pollution, and require periodic
cleaning. Oils provide only a moderate amount
protection against liquid water, so cupping may
become a problem in some applications. Be sure
to allot ample curing time, as most drying oils
take several weeks to cure completely."
(http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/9_19mcnamara2A.html)
- "Wax itself" does not deteriorate over time, nor
does it affect the substrate below or what ever it is
applied too. For lack of a better scenario, wax to seal
jellies. And isn't this exactly what we wish to do for a
fine finish ? That is protect it , as it is, and not
alter it or cause it to be altered in any way over time?
The idea being to preserve the patina and aesthetic
qualities the piece has acquired over time. There are
many applications for Linseed Oil which are justified,
but the maintenance of fine finishes and furniture in
general is not one of them. And the continued misnomer
that feeding the finish to protect it with an oil based
linseed oil polish is not one of them. It is a falsity
perpetrated by those who have not done their home work
and wishing to make a sale. Waxes blended with Linseed
Oil must also be studied closely, for they too can have
the same affect, as one can find by simply searching out
for the "good" "Ole recipes", many of which are beeswax
and linseed oil. Larry Mann 1/29/04
|
