Common sense should prevent most problems. More than other complications, a first time user may apply too much wax, and then experience trouble in buffing out, after the solvent evaporates off. Always apply a thin coat and buff out to ensure that the surface has been completely covered.

• It is always good practice for the uncertain consumer to experiment with an unknown product in an inconspicuous area. If you have doubt, apply the wax to the inside of a leg, and then determine if you approve of the result.
• Similarly to many consumer products, BRIWAX is flammable and its vapor is harmful. All quality wood finishing waxes utilize a flammable solvent to emulsify the blend. The advantage of using a hotter solvent is that it evaporates off in very short order and for all practical purposes entirely, not so with lesser blends. Don't be fooled by "environmentally friendly solvents". There are none. Lesser quality (less expensive) solvents take a great deal of time to evaporate off and don't emulsify the wax blend properly. The hotter solvent in Briwax evaporates off and then you are left with inert, stable natural waxes. Some waxes utilize solvents which never fully evaporate off, not so with Briwax.
• Pay close attention to and heed the warning on the can. The solvent will react with and discolor linoleum flooring.
• The product is formulated to stain, so be careful of splashing the product on walls or clothing.
• BRIWAX will liquefy in hot weather. This in no way reduces the quality of the product. Do not leave the top off the can. In a short time, the solvent will evaporate, and this will diminish the effectiveness of the product.

If it seems like way too much work, it probably is !!! Briwax will only come to a high hard luster when it is optimally thin and burnished. A process which is relatively fast to do with Briwax and is why Briwax excels above all the rest. A coat of wax is not generally what you want, but an optimally applied thin coat. And Briwax will out shine them all.

Initial application might take slightly longer due to a buildup of dirt, grease, oil, or old wax buildup. There after it is much easier and less frequent than normal cleaning with current products. Most often, even after many months, just a quick buff brings the luster back if it should seem to have dulled out.  

This is a result of applying too much BRIWAX to the surface, not wiping of the excess, and letting it dry. A reapplication of BRIWAX with a clean cloth will dissolve and remove this excess wax and allow you the opportunity. to wipe thin before the solvent evaporates. But even with care streaking may still result.

(A TIP) A method which works well is to begin the buffing with 0000 steel wool. Take a pad, unroll it into a flat sheet. Lightly go over your Briwax till the wool glides and you just see the initial signs of a luster developing. There should be no drag when the wool is lightly floated over the waxed surface If there is, it is dragging on excess wax. In essence the excess problem wax is being mechanically removed by this method. Now switch to your buffing and burnishing process. We recommend cotton, buffing wool or best yet our "Pine Brush"

A buildup of furniture oil and dirt applied over the years may smear when BRIWAX is applied with a cloth. Use a 0000 (superfine) oil free steel wool to assist in lifting off the dissolved oil and dirt.

Too much BRIWAX can result in smearing. follow directions above or use denatured alcohol or mineral spirits with a course cloth to remove excess wax or oil.

This is caused by the absorption of BRIWAX into unsealed wood, such as stripped pine or oak. Reapplication of BRIWAX is indicated to fully seal the wood surface. This process may have to be repeated according to the porosity of the wood.

On finished surfaces, finish dull out is an indication that another application of BRIWAX is needed.

BRIWAX gives twice the surface coverage of a normal tin of wax, longer durability and much better protection from household spills and stains. BRIWAX does not have wax buildup like the other waxes. Over all it is a much better value.

• Should antique furniture be "fed" linseed oil?:  

  • http://www.taunton.com/fw/features/techniques/27linseed.htm

• Finishing Oily Woods:  

  • http://www.woodworking.com/magazine/jul96/finish/index.html

• Lye:

  • An opinion and explanation about the lye aging solution

• Fuming with Ammonia

  • http://www.taunton.com/fw/features/techniques/fuming/1.htm
  • ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/woodwork-ammonia